One of the very best things about Fashion Week for me (as a beauty writer) is the opportunity to watch some of the most accomplished makeup artists, hair stylists, and nail techs, work their magic on models, backstage at fashion shows. If the makeup artist is Tina Turnbow, you know you’re going to see something spectacular! At Hernan Lander, Turnbow created an earthy and fierce eye look, with nude skin, lips and eyebrows lightened on the corners, using NYX Cosmetics. Although this look is dramatic and you might want to tone it down a bit if you’re going to try it at home, it went perfectly with the intense and almost “feral” clothing Lander created for his presentation at The Box in Lincoln Center (see the fashion report here).
The fashions, and Turnbow’s makeup look, was inspired by the idea of a universal brotherhood of man, with eyes open to one’s surroundings .
Naturally, Tina’s focus was on the model’s eyes. Using several soft pencils, some powder shadow and a glittery copper roller-ball applied in the middle of the eye to make it more “open,” Turnbow’s eye look was made to be almost like marble. Turnbow used browns, greys and earthy colors in warm and cool tones, to make the look come together. As the models were shown to Turbow for approval, she asked for even more eye emphasis from her team of makeup artists. Each mode’s eye makeup was like marble itself, similar, but still unique.
The rest of the face was really just the canvas for the eye look. The skin was matte but not completely flat, using Powder Foundation and Studio Finishing Powder without any blush. Lips too, were simply nuded-out. The big surprise was the brows, with the outer corners nuded out to open the eye even more. It worked.
This look, as you can see, looked amazing with the clothes, and if looks dramatic if you’re young and pretty. But if you’re going to try this at home and you want it to be more realistic, I’d suggest adding some light blush and perhaps a deeper or pinker lip pencil with a dab of lip balm. It might be hard to pull off the entire look without it. If you want to try the brow look, make it subtle, not as though you lost your brows due to an illness! Turnbow suggested that you might dab some concealer on the outer third of your eyebrows, or fill in the inner two-thirds of our brows, to open up your eye area more. It can’t hurt to try it! After all, makeup can simply be washed off if you don’t like it.
Here is a copy of the makeup chart Tina and her team used with NYX Cosmetics for Hernan Lander:
Even though I was invited backstage by NYX Cosmetics to cover the makeup look, editors are often invited to check out the other aspects of backstage beauty, as a courtesy. It does get busy back there!
The unique, twisted ponytail look was created by Paul Merritt with products by Unite) and the nails (using a glittery black polish from ZOYA called “Dahlia). At first I thought this twisted ponytail with a loop you could almost see through as the models stood on the runway, was a DIY. But it is actually two ponytails in one, and then the back is literally sewn with elastic thread and a needle into the back of the model’s heads. I don’t think any of us could do that at home ourselves! Using Unite gel and other styling products, Merritt pulled up the hair, added tons of gel and needed another set of hands to put the look together. The result is really unique, especially on the models with ombre tints at the ends like this girl above. If you wanted to do this yourself, I guess the best way to do it would be to practice, practice, practice!
The Zoya nail polish chosen for Hernan Lander was a dramatic, glittery black that is available now. Zoya describes it as: ”A black beauty with a sugared sparkle, in the exclusive Zoya PixieDust Matte Sparkle formula.” I’ve been wearing another Zoya nail polish that is nude, called “Godiva” as an accent nail all Fashion Week (those are not my nails in the photo, I only wish!). The PixieDust Matte Sparkle formula has texture. Here is how you apply it properly: Do not use a base coat or top coat. Apply 1-3 (for full coverage) thin coats of polish. Allow product to dry completely in between layers for full effect. The PixieDust textured formula may take up to 10 minutes to dry down completely matte. Once dry, the textured finish is long lasting, matte and ultra-glittery!
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