Zang Toi--Last Show of Fall Fashion Week 2008

Slippery, faux snow lined the runway for this last collection to be shown for the Mercedes Benz NYC Fall 2008 Fashion Week. And, this show, the Zang Toi runway show, was really one of the most interesting of the entire week. It had a bit of everything I've been seeing on runways all week: slick hair in buns, red lips, funky dresses, elegant gowns, quirky details...but definitely a signature, rock star style. The program notes from the House of Toi stated that the collection was: "inspired by the grand lifestyle at The Point in the Adirondacks, where magnificent and sumptuous log cabins were built by William Avery Rockefeller that personified the romantic notion of "roughing it" in luxurious and glamorous style. "
There really was something for everyone, from fun and funky coats and parkas trimmed with Mongolian Lamb collars, made a bit disturbing with the addition of large, dark, ski goggles, to heart-stopping, amazingly elegant, 20's-style silky evening gowns with gorgeous, drape-y, low backs. Some of these merely dipped daringly low, and some were also festooned with "back necklaces" of glittering crystals. There were elegant wools, such as this not-quite-a-day-dress worn with a drape of fur, to a number of designs for fahionable men who want to be luxurious and elegant. This sexy, black velvet suit was a good example.

Although Sean Jean was still to present at Cipriani, this was the last actual show at the Bryant Park tents--at least for this season. The A-listers are ushered quietly in and out, but for the majority of show-goers it had been a long week lugging coats and bags, and standing and waiting on tired feet. The events were winding down, and wearing people out, and on the line, civility was beginning to wane and tempers were beginning to rise. Still, the sheer number of people hoping to get into this last show was astounding. The assumed risers were packed with photographers, and the line of guests waiting to get into the show was very long (and eager to move forward into the Promenade).

Finally, everyone was in and seated. Was it worth the wait? Definitely! While "American" songs such as the Guess Who's "American Woman" formed a heavy beat, the models walked ever-so-purposefully and slowly down the runway, giving guest a chance to see each luxurious detail. The clothes, although alluding to weekends in the country and the gerat outdoors, was hardly "roughwear." The fabrics included plenty of cashmere, fur (Russian Sable and Mink, mostly) and oversized accessories such as the black leather handbag worn worn with a mink coat.

The styles included a bit of everything, but my favorite was the "Infanta Style" red and black evening dress that was full, glittering and gorgeous. Another ballgown that was a true show stopper was the final of 37 looks -- a very full skirted, pure white Princess gown described as: "Portrait of an Adirondack Star.' That would be celestrial star, not celebrity star, as the heavily collared neck was created of glittering crystals almost as blinding as a real star in the heavens. Other standouts were the draped, one-shoulder gowns, and and compellingly expensive-looking daywear that struck a positive chord with the crowd, too. I loved the hair-- a kooky bun created by Eiji Salon pairing three "Princess Leia" style "faux" buns wrapped around a sleek, real one. Manicures were courtesy of J. Sisters, Make-up by the charming Rudy Miles and team. More flash was generated from still cameras at this show than nearly any other.

Immediately after the show, the crowd was quickly directed out of the tent. Even the port-o-sans were closed. The lobby displays, dark. "Show's over, bathroom's are closed, please leave the tent" directed the security guards. This view of the main portal to the tent is what I saw first every day of Mercedes Benz Fall 2008 Fashion Week. By the time I left after Zang Toi's show, night had already fallen and the facade was bathed in twilight.

The show is over, until next season.

...I hope you have enjoyed the AdviceSisters fashion week coverage. Please leave comments! And, as a reminder: Feel free to LINK to this post, but do not take anything you see on this blog or spidered by search engines without written permission. All text and photos © 2008 all rights reserved by Alison Blackman Dunham of THE ADVICE SISTERS® The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark. For permission to use this content, please contact advicesisters(at)advicesisters(dot)net

Zang Toi-Mercedez Benz Fashion Week (last but not least)

*I meant to post this last week but was waiting for Allison Joyce's photos...so last, but not least....Zang Toi!

The last show I attended at Mercedez Benz Fashion Week was that of Zang Toi. I wondered when I recieved my invitation why the time for the show was listed ast 3.57. I later learned that the designer, Zang Toi, was born and raised in Malaysia, and thinks the number "four" is a bad omen that sounds like the word for "death" in Cantonese. Apparently, Zang Toi won't use the number "4" for anything, so when he was given the time slot of 4pm on Friday, February 9th to mount his show, he requested that people assemble at 3"47 instead of having to list 4pm.

Apparently, the time slot was popular with fashionistas, many of whom arrived early, invitations in hand, only to be given standing room slots. I was one of the members of the press that was invited, but received a standing room ticket. I was close to the front of the standing room line and I really wanted to see the show, but it was not only delayed (nothing special about that--many of the shows are delayed) but the standing room line was so long it was doubtful that many of us would get in.

Finally, someone walked down the standing room line asking if there were any writers or photographers in the line and called us out to walk in first. Allison Joyce, an up-and-coming young photographer taking photos for The Advice Sisters for this show, and I, found places to see the show. Me, from the third row (behind some tall people whose heads appear in too many of my Zang Toi photos), Allison, from the side of the photographer's pit.


Photo by Alison Blackman


photo by Allison Joyce


This settled into a director's chair (behind two very tall people with big hair, alas), I checked out the runway. At the front there was a large black and white poster with Zang Toi's logo, surrounded by deep, red, roses. This was the backdrop for day and evening clothes that exluded elegance and extravagance, but were still quite wearable.

The theme of the show was "The Iconic Catherine Denueve." I didn't quite "get" that from the 43 looks that went down the runway (quite a lot of clothes, I thought). But it was quite a show! Lush brocade, lots of fur, jewelled pins, and collars of beads that make additional jewelry totally redundant, sashayed down the runway on models with large halo poufs of romantic, ruffed curls by Eiji Salon. The makeup was done by NARS, and I'll try to get you more information so you can "do the look" for Fall. Manicures, which I didn't get close enough to see, were by J. Sisters.

These styles are extravagant, a bit bohemian, and expensive looking. There were deep, jewel-toned colors...red, green, rust, beige, and more! Although I'm not familiar with Zang Toi's past collections, this one said "fun" and "youthful" to me. The clothes were a also a bit irreverant--just the kind of thing I can image Patty Hearst wearing to a cotillion, during her days before she was kidnapped! (photo by Allison Joyce)

If you don't want to see your clothes on every other woman out there, and you've got the "means," Zang Toi might be just the prescription!