Peter Som Fashion Week Spring 09-Pretty, Beautiful and Gorgeous

Peter Som's collection last season (in a show exclusively for American Express cardmembers), could be summed up in one word" powerful." Architectural in feeling, beautifully cut and tailored. the "masculine" designs of this collection draped and formed around a woman's body like they were for that one woman, alone. But for Spring, 2009, the look is much looser, prettier and more feminine, with a range of options for day and evening. As you can see from this card showing some of the looks, there was also plenty of color including red, peach, turqoise and pink, plus several shades of Springtime green.

It's always exciting to don your backstage pass and walk through these doors. What will the models look like? What will the clothes be like? Come inside ....this will give you a quick idea!

Before I checked out the hair and makeup I took these photos of Mr. Som, who always seems amazingly calm and collected. What goes on in a designer's mind less than an hour before a show? I'm not sure, but he is asked: "what is the inspiration for your collection?" over and over and over again!

First on my agenda was to check out the nails, courtesy of Creative Nail Design. The models were wearing a sheer, warm, flesh called "Serenity" that looks dark in the blob on the right, but was actually a sheer gloss that's four season and really easy to wear. As Roxanne Valinoti, Education Ambasaddor for Creative Nail Design, explained, nails are increasingly an important part of a designer's runway look. And, it's always an important part of a woman's everyday look as well. Well groomed nails are a must-have. Remember when mom told you not to leave the house with scuffed shoes because it reflected poorly on your image and would leave a negative impression? Nails have the same effect. Roxanne told me of one powerful fashionista that confided when she shakes someone's hand she knows immediately whether or not she will work with that person. If the nails look unkempt, that could be the instant end to a business relationship! In a down economy, a coat of a trendy new nail color can instantly update a wardrobe that has little room in the budget for new fashions. Nails are the newest must-have fashion accessory!

I also checked out the clothes, of course. I particularly liked this bustier-top mini dress in a tweed jacquard copper shimmer, (held for me by Lana, one of Som's helpers)...

.....here's how that dress looked on the model, on the runway!

Two other personal favorites are this cocktail dress with black applique in a rich, elegant fabric, and this peachy-pink, suede day to evening dress with wide leather belt and the must-have fashion accessory for Spring, killer shades.

Makeup was provided by makeup artist Pat McGrath using Max Factor Cosmetics. She always looks runway elegant herself! The key element in the look is "healthy" said McGrath. Smooth, sunny, gorgeous skin, accented with pink-ish nude, shiny lips and eyes ringed with color.

Hair was styled by Guido of Redken..a breezy, young, beachy, innocent look that was a bit "Bardot" but less kittenish and more a bit more rough and sexy. The slight "pouf" on the top of this pulled-up-at-the-sides style looked perfect with the uptown/downtown clothes on the runway! Peter Som's designs for this season are so rich-girl perfect that the hair had to be a bit more edgy and no so perfect to add a balance, Guido said. Redken Spray Starch 15 was the star product used in this show, and also in the Gottex show later in the day.

Here are some additional scenes from the actual Peter Som runway show:

Elegant, Sophisticated Beauty-Bill Blass

Last Night, I saw Peter Som at the American Express Cardmembers only show, in which he previewed his Spring 2008 and Fall 2008 collections. But this morning, Mr. Som was back at the tents, hard at work backstage in Bryant Park, getting ready for his first show for Bill Blass.


The Creative Nail Design team were already hard at work when I arrived, adding a brown/burguny shimmer polish called "Baroque" (you can get it now if you like) to both fingers AND toes of the model. This color is elegant enough to stand up to the strong, architectual, and sophisticated designs of the clothes, and complimented the colors. The toes were also painted, explained Cherie from Creative Nail Design, because the models were wearing sheer stockings and chunky sandals and peep-toe shoes by Christian Lamboutin for Bill Blass. The bold burgundy nail color looked beautiful on the runway and especially with these shoes.

I asked: what can my readers do to make nails new, this Fall? Cherie replied that the trend is still for very strong hits of color, like burgundy or deep plum, or dark blue. As with last year, these are going to stay in style (but many are super-metallic instead shimmery or glittery). You can also make your nail polish look new by coordinating the color of polish with an element in your outfit. For example, if you're wearing a hot pink belt, make your polish, match. But don't overdo....blue from head to tips of your toes, for example, is just TOO much!

Tom Pecheux was working his makeup magic with the MAC Pro Team. Although I didn't have an interview set up with him, he saw me scribbling madly on my pad, and gave me a few minutes of his time to talk about the makeup. When I asked what the vision was for the makeup he without hesitation replied: GLAM ROCK." But then the charming makeup artist added: "More glam than rock." For Bill blass, as with many shows this season, you've got to treat your skin to a light, matte finish. And, the emphsis is still on the eyes.Tom used lots of mascara, false lashes, and an intense colored blush in plum with a mix of pink and orange thown in. Interestingly, there was just a nude lip --the effect was that you couldn't help but stare into the model's eyes and barely notice anything else. When I suggested to Tom that he really had a way with words he said..."I'm French!" I guess that says it all.

EugeneSouleiman created the hair look. This slick, severe bun was reminiscent of a modern Robert Palmer Girl. The slicked back bun was severe, but the little twist on the side made it a bit funkier and more feminine. You can do a similar style yourself, by keeping hair sleek, maybe in a pontail instead of a perfect bun, but twisted one piece of hair to the side and then re-incorporating it into the finished look.

The idea, according to Eugene (in the hat), was to make a style that showed a strong, maybe somewhat cold woman on the surface, but underneath burns a warm heart. A woman who lived in France and is now transplanted to NYC...chic, maybe a bit cold, but a woman underneath the surface. As I've heard many times this week from the stylists, CLEAN is the word to describe the hair looks for fall. Eugene used products from GHD, including an amazing hot iron with triple-dipped plates for ultimate control and even heating. When I asked Eugene what trends he'd suggest for Fall, he immediately said "I don't believe in trends." Individuality, what works for you and what makes you look good, is always in. A good stylist helps you discover what really looks good, and not just what everyone is wearing. This man is a GOOD stylist!



It was getting pretty crowded backstage, so I wandered up to the racks of clothes, just to take in a few details. The models, the lights, the music...it all look so wonderful on the runway, but when you look at just the clothes without models, lights, or music, you realize that each is a little work works art--a work of art meant to be worn by a discerning clientele. If you can't afford a Bill Blass original, you can still take away some design elements from the collection. FOR DO IT YOURSELF-ERS. This slinky blue evening gown was wrapped around the waist with a black, velvet ribbon belt --try a velvet ribbon as a belt or around your neck to freshen up last year's party dress. Features (ostrich, in particular) and fur (faux or otherwise) are big for Fall. Festoon a substantial cardigan like the grey one in the photo with either to dress up any outfit, especially eveningwear. Also try wearing luxurious hats and gloves to "citify" your outfits. The ones in this show were gloves by Lacrasia, hats by (the often daring) Philip Treacy.

The photographers and TV crews were beginning to close in, but Peter Som still kept his cool, looking young, fresh, and happy and not the least bit worried about his collection. Of course, he wasn'it worried--it was amazing! The clothes were modern, unique, strong and architectural in feeling, beautifully cut and tailored, but still, meant for a beautiful woman. While Som's own collections are sophisticatedm they are also approachable and within reach of working women. This collection, his first collection with Bill Blass, is statment dressing, Alas, fashion is still a class society and these clothes announce it. The strong, almost masculine designs of this collection simply say "upper class." They drape and form around a woman's body like expensive clothes for discerning women (not girls) do. The slender evening gowns and tailored daywear are wildly compelling, but not cuddly or cute. This is attractive power dressing in the way a woman dreams to look -- it's not a young girl's "pretty." I actually can't imagine a woman crying and/or having a hissy fit in these clothes...she would simply be too chic, too collected, too cool to do so.

This card, situated right outside of the catwalk entrance, shows all of the looks!

A-listers slowly filled their seats in the large tent venue, including Roll Call: Tinsley Mortimer (the only one I really could see and recognize) is in this photo in the green. Also there were Jamee Gregory, Adelina Wong Ettelson, Helen Schifter, Nina Garcia, Gilles Bensimon, and Linda Fargo. Anna Wintour was supposedly there too, supposedly...who could find anyone in the crush of people schmoozing and photographing others on the runway before and after the show?

..and...the show was beautiful, with a sound track that included the pop band Depeche Mode. Afterwards, everyone was talking and talking and talking about the new infusion of talent and excitement Mr. Som has brought to the label of Bill Blass. Devotees of Bill Blass don't want to wear hippie chic or micro minis, odd hats, or goth makeup. They're all about understated, refined, confident, elegance. This is fashion that, like Pygmalion, can transform a woman.

all text and photos © 2008 all rights reserved by Alison Blackman Dunham of THE ADVICE SISTERS® The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark. All photos by Alison Blackman Dunham. For permission to use this content, please contact advicesisters(at)advicesisters(dot)

American Express Cardmember Only Show Featuring Peter Som Gives Would-Be Carry Bradshaws A Taste of Fashion Week

On Wednesday evening at the Promenade in the Bryant Park Tents, a full house of would-be "Sex and the City" front-row hopefuls got a taste of what Editors, Buyers, Celebrities and other media have been experiencing all week, with an insiders look at Fashion Week . The Amercan Express Cardmembers only event featuring Designer Peter Som included a runway show with 35 looks from his Spring 2008 collection, in stores next month, and a few goodies from his hot-off-the-runway Fall 2008 Collection which premiered to the trade just days ago. Here are some looks from Peter Som's Spring 2008 collection, available in stores next month (March 2008).

photos by Alison Blackman for the Advice Sisters

Photographers filled the riser and guests looks breathlessly at a parade of pleasing, wearable, silk, cotton, organdy, and wool day dresses, suits and coats in muted shades of grey, ivory, charcoal, and tweed. These beautifully tailored clothes would work for the office, or for a night out on the town. Most were tasteful, and knee length, not a crazy, wild, or bizarre design in the bunch. These clothes were classy, classic...simply pretty, well designed, user-friendly for a sophisticated fashionista. Pretty party dresses with defined waists and fuller skirts will be figure-friendly for every body.

photos by Alison Blackman for the Advice Sisters

It's all about Fall 2008 in the tents, during the day, and although the majority of the looks shown were from the Spring collection but there was a touch of Fall included. , Som delighted his audience with some looks that had just been shown on the runway for Fall 2008. Plaids, slate, brown, moss, and black seem predominated, but there were some special event dresses in beautiful coppery brown and burgundy that women of all ages will covet!

After the show, Hosts Robert Verdi and Model Roshumba Williams came out onto the runway to add a personal touch, chatting informally and giving their views of fashion and trends. I have been watching the American Express Fashion Networks shows online all week and the coverage has been absolutely wonderful! If you haven't check out their live-from-the-runway, interviews, and features, there's still time, as Fashion Week doesn't end for another couple of days. And, if you're lucky enough to gain entry to the tent, you'll see Robert ahd Roshumba at the American Express booth in the lobby. Unlike regular runway shows, where the designer pops out for just a second to take a bow at the end, at this special show, American Express cardmembers and members of the media got a unique chance to see and hear Designer Peter Som actually talk about his collections with Robert and Roshumba. Shared, for example, was the fact that his parents were both architects, (you can see some of their influence in his clothes) and that his collection was inspired, at least in part, by a recent visit to Bilbao. Peter Som has had a busy time of it lately, as he has his own collection to manage, and he has a new role at Bill Blass a the house of Bill Blass's creative director...and Bill Blass's show is tomorrow!

American Express has been a very visible sponsor of this season's fashion week and has offered a number of ways for audiences to experience a bit of the glamour. There's an American Express Skybox overlooking the main tent and the Promenade, providing premium access to AMEX Gold Card members, Platinum Care members, and Centurian Card members. I hear it's like other luxury skyboxes in other venues, complete with beverages and munchies, but it's exclusive access, so I can't verify what's really going on in there! I'm guessing, it's pretty exciting for those who otherwise wouldn't be at Fashion Week, or there just for work. In December, the "By Invitation Only" Experiences Fashion Week packages quickly sold out. These included full-day access to the skybox on February 2nd and 3rd, and a behind-the-scenes experience including backstage tours, hair and make-up by stylists onsite, and meet and greets with fashion industry insiders.

All proceeds from the American Express Cardmember only show ticket sales will go towards the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund :: CFDA.com Council of Fashion Designers . The fund's purpose is to generate sufficient income each year to fund significant financial awards to one or more designers and provide business mentoring. Award recipients are selected by a Committee of industry experts, based on the exceptional talent they have already demonstrated in fashion design and their capacity for future distinction in the fashion industry.

watch for more reports, reviews, and photos!

all text and photos © 2008 all rights reserved by Alison Blackman Dunham of THE ADVICE SISTERS® The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark. All photos by Alison Blackman Dunham. For permission to use this content, please contact advicesisters(at)advicesisters(dot)

The Worst Thing A Writer Can Do During Fashion Week

The worst thing a writer can do during Fashion Week is oversleep.
....and that's just what I did this morning, missing an opportunity to see Nanette Lepore's show.

The alarm didn't go off. The cat didn't meow....the next thing I knew it was after 9:00.

So I'm sitting here, watching Robert Verdi tell me what I'm missing --on the American Express Fashion Network (if you haven't checked it out, definitely, DO)! You can see live video of the tents, the shows, and the "stars" at: http://stylevideo.areyouacardmember.com/

But as Robert just said on his fashion forecast for today, there's plenty yet to experience in the tents later on. I'll be seeing Anna Sui, and tonight, I'll have a special treat....an “American Express Cardmember Only Show" featuring Peter Som in the Promenade at the Tents at Bryant Park!

It may be all about Fall 2008 in the tents, normally, but this show is all about Peter Som's Spring 2008 collection, which will be available in stores next month (March 2008). During the one hour event, American Express cardmembers will get the inside scoop on how to order the looks they have seen. And, Peter Som will take questions from the crowd, talk about designing his different collections and his new role at Bill Blass.

...how can you beat that!


Peter Som's clothes are popular, and getting even more so. In July 2007 Som announced his appointment at the house of Bill Blass as creative director of the iconic American brand. He know oversees the company’s entire women’s collection, including all owned and licensed divisions.

All proceeds from the American Express Cardmember only show ticket sales will go towards the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund :: CFDA.com Council of Fashion Designers . The fund's purpose is to generate sufficient income each year to fund significant financial awards to one or more designers and provide business mentoring. Award recipients are selected by a Committee of industry experts, based on the exceptional talent they have already demonstrated in fashion design and their capacity for future distinction in the fashion industry.

watch for more reports, reviews, and photos!

ALISON