Tattoo? Acne? Rosacea? Flaws? Banish Them With Cover FX

For most people, choosing a foundation can be daunting, but if you have acne, or a scar, or a tattoo, or any skin condition that is visible, choosing a foundation that can conceal without causing additional problems, can be a nightmare!



Cover FX is a company was designed by Lee Graff (a corrective foundation artist at the CosMedical Clinic at Toronto's Sunnybrook & Women's College Health Science Center who reminds me a bit of actress Linda Gray) in conjunction with Dr. Neil Shear, Chief of Dermatology at the Sunnybrook & Women's College Health Sciences Centre, and Chemical Engineer Jenny Frankel (the most gorgeous engineer you'll ever meet) after Lee couldn't find the types of products that could really help patients suffering emotional and physical pain from skin conditions.



The company has a variety of different concealing products that work for a variety of different types of skin and give matte, full, luminous, or natural coverage. In fact, there are more than 30 colors of the signature product, Cover FX (also acts as a fantastic concealer). Cover FX is the most opaque with the maximum coverage, used to conceal even hard to cover tattoos (apparently Angelina Jolie was covered with this during the filming of 'Mr. & Mrs. Smith"). It's used in Hollywood a great deal, and there are plenty of stars that swear by it.



There are three "PREP" products: Skin Prep FX, ClearPrep FX (new, matte and anti-acne) and Matte FAX (blotting power primer). There are five foundation/cover products: Cover DX (total coverage and spf 30), Natural FX (water based liquid SPF 15) , Powder FX (SPF 10), Skintint FX (spf 30 tinted moisturizer) and Mineral FX (pure minerals spf 15). The costs range from $32.00 for the Powder FX to $42.00 for the Cover FX and Skintint FX. All of the products have good-for-your-skin ingredients.



There's a translucent Setting Powder "Setting FX" and Finishing Touches such as Radiant FX (pearlized mineral highlight) a Bronzed FX (bronzer in a compact), Blushes, and a Lip Cover (plumper). The line has several brushes and a brush cleanser and an alcohol and fragrance-free Cleanser.



A color wheel helps you choose the right cover foundation, based on your basic coloring and offers you several options in terms of coverage based on your needs and skin type. In truth, I found the process of choosing the right color and the appropriate formula for my skin, a bit daunting. You can purchase these products online, but it's really to your advantage to go to a store where Cover is sold, and let a pro help you select just the right products. For example, I was told I was a C30 ("C" meaning "cool) although my skin is almost always categorized as warm. I never would have picked that color. But when the makeup artist dabbed the skin on my neck with the Natural FX Water Based Foundation, it blended right in. So who am I to argue? In summary, when you find the right one for your skin type and tone, it will cover flaws and not look obvious. TIP: For all of the FX products, a Cover FX Skin Prep Primer (in a pump bottle) helps keep the foundation smooth and fresh all day.







This may all seem a bit dizzying, but all you really need are three products, no matter what type of skin or coverage you are seeking: Prep (with Cover FX Skin Prep Primer), and then either Cover first with your foundation and Set, or Blot and then Cover. Here's a photo of one of the Coverage in a Kits from HSN showing three coordinated products.






Visit: http://www.coverfx.com/ or Sephora or Nordstrom online. Look for Coverage in a Kit products (dark, fair, medium-light and medium at HSN.

BeautyCast Videos for DIY "making up" on a Bride's Special Day

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, and if that’s true (and it is), a video is priceless! The BeautyCast Bridal Collection DVD Volumes 1 and 2 will give you all the tools you need to do your makeup like a professional makeup artist. Created by talented makeup artist Barbara Siragusa, Beauty Cast DVDs offer lots different makeup looks especially for brides and others significant to her wedding party such as her attendants, and mothers of the couple. Volume 1 offers seven makeup looks for a traditional, white wedding. Volume 2 offers ideas five different looks for a “fantasy” wedding.

What’s really wonderful about these videos is the ability to see a makeup artist work in close-up on eyes, lips, cheeks. The dvd clearly shows the colors used, the brushes used (and why that brush is important), the techniques to apply everything, and then, a final “reveal.” You can learn so much about application, color choice, and blending from watching these whether you’re a bride looking for DIY on your special day, or you just want to finally understand what makeup artists are doing when they’re applying full makeup on your face (no, a chart from the department store makeup counter isn’t going to really help you faithfully re-create a look that an expert has created). I also like the idea that Ms Siragusa has chosen models of all ages, skin types, and ethnicities. These women do not look like supermodels, they look like average women who want dramatic makeup for a special occasion...and I love this!

The looks are not everyday makeup. They are complicated and require a lot of practice to accomplish (so get the videos well in advance if you're really going to try and re-create the looks for a special occasion). In some cases, we counted more than 16 different products and colors used on the eyes alone. It’s just too much makeup for most women, even if it's done by a professional makeup artist. On the other hand, if it's just too challenging for you, take the looks and tone them down to create a glamorous vision of the original. The focus is all on the eyes and lips...no foundation or concealer techniques are shown, and the lips are all very dramatic. I personally wouldn’t suggest red lips for a wedding day as in one of the looks from the Fantasy Wedding collection. A bride does way too much kissing on her special day to use a dark lipstick, and hope it won't smear. False eyelashes are also used in most of the looks. That's ok if you like them, but on a wedding day, I think they are impractical (brides cry, and lashes get loose). Again, you can pick and choose what parts of the look you want. I really enjoyed watching the videos. They were instructive, entertaining, and well produced. Don’t wait to say “I do” to check them out - www.youarethesupermodel.com

*if you like this review, check out the latest Advice Sisters What Works Beauty, Cosmetics & Fashion review column for FALL 2008--up NOW at http://www.advicesisters.net/whatworkscol3.html

M-A-C Cosmetics Fafi Collection--Advice Sisters Products of the Month!

MAC Cosmetics is always coming out with fresh, trendy, exciting collections. That's why we're making M-A-C Fafi the Collection of the month this March. It's a limited edition collection that debuted next month, so hurry and get the items you want before they're all sold out!
Fafi is a collaboration between M-A-C Cosmetics and a 32-year old graffiti artist called Fafi. They're created a very colorful, young, fun, 35 piece collection of both products and accessories.

Fafi was born and raised in Toulouse, France, and is best known for “images of sexy and liberated Japanese anime girls called “FaFiNETes”. the Fafinette characters have adorned Diet Coke cans in France and sneakers and even hoodies for Adidas and Fafi sells her characters on a variety of T-shirts at http://www.fafi.net/

Just in case you haven't been clued-in yet, and you're wondering what a FaFiNETte is.....? FaFiNETte's are "nymphets with a Ph.D. in passion,” who live in a fantastic, magical realm called the Carmine vault. They live there, but check in our us mere (and less colorful) mortals. The FaFiNETes look like little girls, but upon closer look, they're pretty sexy. Each has a distinct personality. MONokA love to read the classics but has a weakness for 50's era French Erotica, and likes rap music, girly lingerie, and sleeps with her high heels on. ErmINe: likes to hang out in Brooklyn and eat Indian food in Jackson Heights, Queens. She's into snowboarding and likes the smell of gasoline. eRiKo: hails from Japan, but is a Francophile who likes ethnic cuisine and collection blue ashtrays, and baking life-size gingerbread men.

The spirit of this collection is pure, youthful fun, but the colors are for the most part, glamorous if you wish, natural if that's your thing, and colorful and bright, if you choose. All Anime girls have sexy, exaggerated lips and eyes, so the collection focuses mostly on these areas, but there's something for everyone. As you'll see from some of the photos below, the collection features compacts and tubes that are emblazoned with "Fafi" characters, and all of the other cardboard sleeves feature the colorful characters on a white background. These products as far as actual colors are concerned, are pretty, and not cartoon-ish. They're the same, good quality, high-performance products you expect from M-A-C. The collection includes: 6 lipsticks, 4 Lipglasses, 2 eye shadow quads, 6 eye shadow Paint Pots, a black eyeliner, 2 kohl pencils, a black mascara , 2 blushes and (for fun): 3 Fafinette dolls, 2 make up cases, a tote bag, t-shirt and a scarf. The best thing is that most items are modestly priced from $14.00 to $17.50 (the brushes and some of the accessorees are more).

Here is the Advice Sisters rundown on the entire line, with our particular favorites.

FAFI LIPSTICK- $14.00

These lipsticks that range from pearly blue pink to coral, rose and strawberry, super-glossed with M-A-C's signature lipglass in bright, pearly colors. They are: Fun ‘n’ Sexy Blue pink with blue pearl (glaze) , Not So Innocent Sheer tan with pink and peach pearl (glaze) , Utterly Frivolous Rosy coral with pink pearl (lustre), High Top Grey purple with blue pearl (glaze) , Flash-n-Dash Intense tangerine red with pink pearl (glaze), Strawbaby Coral rose with rainbow pearl (lustre). My personal favorite is Utterly Frivolous," a sheer, lustre lipstick that looks moist, but not slick, and in a gorgeous, pink/coral that will look nice on just about everyone. "Flash-N-Dash is a Glaze formula that's an intense tangerine red with pink pearl --try this with a tan!

FAFI LIPGLASS $14.50

These are super-patent-leather shine magenets. They're wanded tubes of high-shine glassgloss that look great as-is, or over one of the lipsticks. Cult Fave Blue mid-tone pink with white pearl (frost), Sugar Trance Creamy soft pink with white and rainbow pearl (frost), Squeeze It Brassy plum (frost) , Totally It Sheer bright pink with intense pink pearl (frost). My pick is the shockingly cool on cool-toned skin color "Totally It," a sheer, super-bright pink frost with intense pink pearl,

FAFI EYE SHADOW X4 (#1) $36.00

Four silky, blendable shades of powder shadow give you a range of shimmer that look natrual to intense, depending upon how you apply them. Howzat Deep grey with silver sparkle (satin) , Hey Neutral tan with white pearl (veluxe pearl) , Pink Venus Washed pink (lustre) , Vanilla Soft pale-peachy-ivory flecked with shimmer (velvet)

FAFI EYE SHADOW X4 (#2) $36.00

*the three FaFiNETtes are features on these black mirrored compacts. They're so cute you can't help but have fun with them! This compact features: Bold as Gold Yellow gold with gold pearl (lustre), You’re Fresh Pale green with silver sparkle (lustre) , Shockwave Intense orange with silver sparkle (velvet), Prankster Muted dark blue (satin)

FAFI PAINT POTS $16.50

Smooth these on like cream and get intense, lovely, lasting color. Choose from Fafi's Nice Vice Dirty purple with purple pearl (frost) , Girl Friendly Creamy grey pink (cream) , Layin’ Low Creamy beige (cream), Cash Flow Green gold with gold pearl (frost), Perky Cream coral with white pearl (satin) , Rollickin’ Aqua blue green with white pearl (frost)

FLUIDLINE $15.00 Blacktrack --Solid flat black

EYE KOHL$13.50
Smolder Intense black and Fascinating Snake-eyes matte white
ZOOM LASH $11.00 Zoomblack -- Rich black

POWDER BLUSH $17.50

Hipness is a chic, intense coral with soft white pearl while Fashion Frenzy faltters cool skin with a mid-tone blue pink

IRIDESCENT PRESSED POWDER $21.00

Use your imagination, and dust these super-sheer, super-shimmery pressed powders wherever you want to glow like the star you are. Colors include: Sassed-up Soft coral pink with gold sparkle , Verve-acaious Intense yellow gold with gold pearl and (my favorite), Belightful Gilded peach bronze.

NAIL LACQUER $10.00

Spring and Summer are on the way, and you're going to be wearing peep-toes and sandals. Coordinate your look with both of these fun colors. Girls Will Be Girls Pink is a ladylike mediuim pink with lots of coral pearl which looks amazing on pale skin, great with a tan. Boom! is a bold, rich eggplant with purple pearl that'll look great with gold and silver sandals for special events, and it'll take you all the way into Fall.

BRUSHES:

210 Precise Eye Liner Firm $17.00 (extra-fine tip brush for precision lining with emollient or water-based products. *this is a replacement for the old M·A·C 210 Eye Liner Brush)

208 Angled Brow Brush Firm, angled tip Brush $17.00 (for precision application of brow and eye-lining products)

182 Buffer Brush $45.00 (super-soft, large, rounded dome tip brush for use with powder face and cheek products). This one is perfect for all your powder bronzers, shimmer powders, and anytime you want to diffuse color over a large area. It's definitely one you want to add to your collection....

...but if you're just going to splurge on one, I'd suggest the 129SH Powder/Blush (with decorated pouch featuring the three fafi girl's faces) $17.00. A classic M-A-C- brush..soft and easy to use for all powder blushes and highlighters. It's a must-have in your makeup bag.

I don't have photos, but there's also a Fafi Tote $60.00, Fafi Dolls $9.00/each, Fafi T $38.00, and a Fafi Scarf $15.00. These accessories are bound to become collector's items.

Get the collection in M-A-C- boutiques in major department stores, as well as online at http://www.maccosmetics.com/

Ellen Tracy-Mercedez Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007

I am excited to be going to the Bill Blass runway show this morning but I'm running late! Last night I attended the Ellen Tracy runway show, so I'll write about that show first.

I love Ellen Tracy clothes. The sophisticated, classic shapes are the darlings of fashionable working women of all ages. Beautifully constructed of great fabrics, with an eye to detail...how could you not love them! FYI: I always thought that Ellen Tracy was a woman, but I learned that the company was started in 1949 as a blouse company by a man--Herbert Gallen. He hired Linda Allard who eventually became Ellen Tracy's Design Director. Her name was added to the Ellen Tracy label in 1984. COMPANY, a line for weekend and dress-down-day clothes, was started in 1991. Confused? Now George Collins Sharp is Vice President of Design Ellen Tracy and he was backstage at the show, of course. I took a few photos of him (check the Advice Sisters Features Pagehttp://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in a few weeks to see links to my photo-essay features on Fashion Week).
My first stop was backstage, to watch NARS makeup artist James Boehmer explain his concept for the show. Here's the model, TAO. She's beautiful without any makeup, but this look was particularly flattering and ladylike. James explained that while there was "nothing special" in terms of a theme for the makeup for Ellen Tracy, he wanted to make it elegant. He said he was inspired (a bit) by the Robert Palmer girl and Helmut Newton but in a more modern way, without the harsh angles and deep blush. The clothes reminded James of YSL "Le Smoking Collection" and so he wanted to have a strong eye AND lip--aggressive but elegant makeup. Interestingly though, here's no blush at all in this look. James simply added a bit of highlighter put high on cheekbones so that the face glows a bit when the model turns. Again, the look is all about color and technique. The eye makeup goes all the way into the brows, but all the harsh lines are removed by blending, blending and more blending! The eye makeup is really several different colors (plus a smudged and blended black eye pencil) James used a Duo Cream Eyeshadow: "Madagascar" and blended it, blended, it and then applied "Zardoz" and blended it, blended it, and blended it. The cream duo is a sheer formula created by NARS to use alone, or underneath NARS powder eye shadows for more color, depth and intensity. Lots and lots of mascara was also applied and black liner smudged top and bottom (a LOT of smudging). Brows were gelled, but no color was applied. He applied a beautiful, creamy, velvet-matte red brick lip pencil on each model ("Forbidden Red"). He lines Tao's lips first, then filled them in with the pencil. James said that when he was talking to the designer about the makeup for the show, they kept going back and forth about the lips--should it be a stain, or a lipstick. Lipstick definitely won out. The red lip against the creamy, matte skin was the perfect accompaniment to the sweaters, coats, and pants. I'll share more of the actual colors and products plus more photos, in the upcoming Advice Sisters Ellen Tracy/NARS feature.

RAMONA from Bumble & Bumble did the hair--sleek, very tight buns full of product for shine and manageability. Creative Nail design did the manicures--a ladylike, totally sheer, iridescent pink called "Negligee"

This show was really all about city chic, as you can see from this photo of took of beautiful Ajuma striding down the runway, wearing a cinnamon alpaca coat, Cinnamon iridescent taffeta blouse, Mahogany stretch viscose 2/4 sleeve sweater, and softly draping, mahogany crepe pants. I love this warm, Fall color, and it showed up in a variety of pieces, and even in a leather jacket. Another standout was a paprika (bright warm red) angora doubleface jacket worn with mahogany silk mesh sleeveless turtleneck and mahogany stretch stain skinny pants (couldn't get a photo of it--sorry)


There was also lots of city-sleek black which looked particularly great with the classy, elegant makeup and sleek hair. Ellen Tracy showed a number of jaunty fedoras, wide patent leather belts in black and brown, and lots of very large satchels in patent leather. There were knit scarves and tunics, too. One black cashmere cable knit sweater sparkled with a sprinkling of black beads and was worn with a stunning, ivory alpaca coat and black flannell pants with a deep pleat.

Black predominated. No surprise here--black is the uniform of chic women, everywhere. In fact, there were few surprises--just lots of urban chic clothes minus tacky, wacky or weird. Every piece in this Fall 2007 Ellen Tracy collection is something a real person would want to own. It's wearable chic you'll want the minute the collection hits the stores.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-ARAKS

I wondered what time the PR staff from People's Revolution had to get up to be at the front of the Altman Building. There they were, and all smiles too, when I arrived at 9:45 A.M. on Super Bowl Sunday. More amazingly, as always, the PR people were beautifully dressed up, even though it was ever chillier today than yesterday and they were sitting right behind the front doors. Since I already knew where backstage was from Gustavo Arango's show on Saturday, I immediately made my way downstairs to the back stage area, to interview James Boehmer, the lead makeup artist for NARS Cosmetics. I met Rachel, my friendly, helpful contact from NARS, and she introduced me to James. I guess I got there a bit later than usual, because many of the models were already "done," but there were still some being made up. James graciously stopped what he was doing to chat with me, stopping our interview only occasionally to check one of the other makeup artists' work.

As you can see from this close-up, this look for ARAKS for Fall is about a balanced, fresh feeling on the entire face. It's not just eyes, or cheeks, or lips. James said the look was inspired by Elizabeth Bennett in Pride and Prejudice (and that was totally in keeping with the romantic nature of the clothes, too). I loved the slightly flushed, "English rose" cheeks and soft pink lip and you will too, it's just about perfect to add some life to your complexion, especially since you'll be wearing a lot of soft and subdued colors this Fall. The Fall ARAKS look is all about the skin...a flawless but fresh face, NARS "Turkish Red" Cream blush and "Desire" pink powder blush adding a hit of color, but not harsh or brash. "Blend, blend, blend" advises James. On Eyes was part of a new shadow duo that won't be available until the end of August, but worth the wait. "Calahari" is a soft brown" that was blended with another new color "Voyage," a soft fawn with a bit of glitter. On lips, NARS"Tempest" lip gloss --a pink with a bit of mauve, but softened so that it will be universally flattering. It looked beautiful on all the models. This is less about "drama" or making a "statement," and more about bringing your own, natural, glowing, beauty. I'll be posting more photos of makeup and hair, and the clothes, of course, shortly on the Advice Sisters web --- check our FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html for all the latest after Fashion Week, along with "do-the-look" makeup instructions, courtesy of NARS.

After speaking with James, I wandered over to Peter Elofsson and his artistic team from RUSK. Peter did the hair for ARAKS last season, too. When I arrived, he was busy using a straightening/smoothing iron on a model. Peter explained that his look for ARAKS was inspired by the elegance of the clothes--a soft of Catherine Deneuve feel, but with more "street" (meaning; texture) in it. You'll see that in my photos. Nearly all of the models had long hair, so the "texture" was added by "bending" the hair a bit (you can see this clearly in my photos, which I'll be using in my photo essays on the Advice Sisters Web Site. Hair had a side part and some models had a tiny silver barette holding a few pieces back to the side. Then, hair was sprayed with a RUSK hair spray to keep it in place, but still swingy. For Fall, Peter says long hair isn't just going to "hang" anymore, but will have a sharper edge and more details.

FYI: Creative Nail design (they did the nails for ARAKS last season, too) did the model's manicures with "Fedora," a very dark polish, and "Decadence," a translucent red.


and the ARAKS collection clothes? Unlike the Spring season's diaphanous clothes, these were more substantial for Fall, with soft movement from rich wools, silk and cotton fabrics. There was some color in this collection, although it was still subdued and mostly dark shades of blue, berry, green, and silver (plus the usual black, ivory, coal, and white) One that I particularly liked was a wool/cotton double face dress with bell sleeves that was in a color called "Night," just a shade lighter than the color of the sky just before all the light dies after the day is over. Another was a coat in a color I'd call "Raspberry" but I think it was called "Gooseberry" in the show description. It was tailored, but with gathering in the back, so it looked dressy, and elegant. A pine silk twill drop shoulder dress with drop puff sleeve was fresh and young, and very pretty. The fashion critics may disagree with me, but the only "miss" for me were the outfits with knickers or shorts, paired with lace-up boots. "Hot pants" or long knickers are "stage-y" and cute for a party, but not flattering on everyone. A cute look that is easy to wear and modern, were the lace-up ankle boots with traditional "oxford" detailing shown with many of the outfits.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Alice Roi

It was cold. Very cold. Too cold. I wondered whether or not I should dress for fashion's sake, or to stay warm. The emotional side of me screamed "you've got to look good!" The practical side said: "It is only Saturday and Fashion Week has really just begun...stay warm and don't get sick."

I opted for a compromise: a robin's egg blue wool jacket reversed with peach, and a camisole that complimented those colors. Pants and black sneakers (I knew I was going to be on my feet from 9am-11pm) and an old down jacket that could be dumped on the floor backstage (so I could juggle my handbag, pen and paper, voice recorder and two cameras without holding a jacket, too).

Anyway, the first stop was Alice Roi. I got there fairly early which meant I got to see Stephane Marais for Bourjois do the model's "model" for all the other Bourjois makeup artists. I will be doing full features with photos on this show in the next few weeks, but I'll give you a preview: the look is all about the eyes. A fresh face and nude, moist lips, but the focus is all on the eyes. Stephane used grey and black metallic and smudged and smoothed and dabbed and smudged...all around the model's eyes. The look was a as if you'd used a lot of non-waterproof eye liner and shadows, and didn't wash it off before bedtime and you rubbed your eyes in teh night. The effect would be soft and smudged around your eyes--but obviously, a much more controlled version walked down the runway! When I spoke to the gracious Celine from Bourjois, she said that the makeup artists were using existing Bourjois products, which means you can "get the look" now if you want to jump ahead a season.

Stephane explained that the look was to compliment Alice Roi's theme and clothes, which was inspired by the beloved book about a little French girl: Madeline (my favorite book growing up). So the makeup was youthful and fresh, but with the deep, smoky eye, a not-so-innocent schoolgirl!

The hair, by Neil Moodie for Bumble and Bumble, was interesting. The models were wearing ponytail extensions made of soft strips of frosted plastic that looked to me like the fringes in a car wash. Hair was pulled sleekly back in mid-crown ponytails. I'll be writing more about the hair on the Advice Sisters Web Site http://www.advicesisters.net/ in the next few weeks. An interesting note was that three of the models (only three) wore short, black wigs. That added a nice balance to the sweetness of the "Madeline" vibe.

I wasn't staying for the show, because I was going to visit backstage at Alexander Herchcovitch, but I did get a sneak peek at the clothes. As yesterday, the colors were austere: black, more black, and black, and some brown and a bit of off-white. There were a lot of chunky knits, worn with (get this): Knee socks and platform shoes of various types. It channeled "Madeline" but more in a Shinjuku punk than very young child. There were some small plaid patterns, primarily in brown tones, some paired with lacy tops to add additional softness. The one bright spot was a sleeveless, swingy, micro-mini dress in a riot of acid pink, orange, white and topped and trimmed with black that looked like something I wore proudly in the 60's. I don't know where it fit into Fall, but it was fun, flirty, and a welcome relief from dark neutrals.


I arrived at the appointed time for Alexander Herchcovitch and was told to come back in half and hour. Nearly two hours later (it was an early call) I finally managed to get backstage to interview the MAC makeup artists and check out the hair. I am off to ARAKS this morning and will write about this show, as well as Gustavo Arrango, and Venexiana, when I get home tonight. It is Superbowl Sunday, but you, my readers, come first!

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Akiko Ogawa

Later in the day, I went to the Akiko Ogawa runway show in the tents. I got there early, and saw my friend Ester Nash on line for another show. How nice to see her! She's such a lovely woman.

As I was checking in for Akiko Ogawa, I ran into another person I know--Steven Bender. He now has his own PR company and is doing lots of interesting things. We had time to catch up for a few minutes. He's one of the "nice guys," too.

But on to the show: the theme is "the masculine look of a British rock star softened into feminine form and laced with elements of 'wabi sabi' (the distinctily Japanese aesthetic of refined rusticity and elegant simplicity considered the highly prized qualities in the traditional arts).

To break that down, the clothes were a mixture of punk bluntness, and soft silk kimono..a perfect fusion of Japanese downtown girls, with geisha elements. Scottish tartan (mostly with green and blue) showed up in pleated skirts, paired with rock-star black.

The audience and the clothes seem "youthful" but in truth, I could see nearly anyone taking pieces from the 39 pieces shown in this collection and making them work. There were skinny pants, mostly in black, along with charcoal gray, but there was some color. The pink used as accents apparently was inspired by the flower of the peony tree. One of the most beautiful pieces was a deep pink kimono tunic, worn with a low-slung Swarovski crystal studded belt. The most beautiful pieces were these silky kimono-styles, worn as dresses and tunics. The models seemed to float down the runway in these. I liked the oversized obi" type sashes that added a distinctly Japanese flair. I also particularly liked a black cropped "military" type jacket with large crystal "buttons" that added sparkle, and some of the jackets and sweaters with faux-fur trim. To add that punk attitude, a variety of platform black leather shoes prevailed. Add a chunky boot to a tartan skirt and you've got just the right mix.

The collection is fun, eye catching, and a welcome relief from the austere. Noda Norikata at MAO did strong, smoky eyes and pale faces. Hair, from Dennis Lanni for Bumble & Bumble was stark -- a sort of modern Louise Brooks short black bob with thick bangs for most of the models. This added a distinct rock star meets the East sensibility that went well with the clothes.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Alice Ritter

Fashion Week has begun!

My first show was Alice Ritter at the Players Club in the chic, Grammercy Park area. It was cold and of course, I arrived on the wrong side of the Park and had to walk around three sides of it to get to my destination.

Inside, young girls in white T-shirts with the simple Alice Ritter logo in black letters, were all smiles. I got there close to start time (I know from experience that most fashion shows do not really start on time) and noticed the cozy club was already packed with chattering fashionistas. Two Alice Ritter staffers, chattering in melodic tones, in French, were sitting on one of three available couches, on opposite ends. They moved over so I could sit down, and I gratefully sank into the leather couch for the "wait" (which turned out to be about 35 minutes). While sitting, I chatted with a young woman who said she was there as an Assistant Buyer for the Isetan department store in Japan. So many buyers and press (yours truly included) didn't have seat assigments! We were finally ushered into a "great hall" lined with imposing oil paintings of what I presume were the founders or past presidents of the Players Club, squeezing ourselves through a gauntlet behind three rows of tightly packed (and mostly filled) seats. We filed in slowly, and I realized that there was an open seat right in front of where the line ended. The lights were just about to go out so I sat down. Alas, anyone not in the front row had an obstructed view.

But the clothes (from what I could see of them) were worth the wait. Down the runway came the most romantic if "costumy" clothes I've seen in a long time. They Edwardian inspired collection featured the most fantastic cropped jackets with nipped-in waists and long, tiered, flouncy back treatments. These were paired with nicely tailored, wide-legged, pants, and romantic, full skirts. Alice Ritter uses a mixture of woven fabrics, and since it was a Fall collection, there was a lot of substantial wool, heavy cotton, and silk. The colors were extremely austere: black, black and more black, and some grey, olive green, and a bit of "caramel, plus a bunch of blouses and dresses in silky, royal purple fabrics. What added spark was silky shine, and some sparkle or sheen in the fabrics of the jackets and skirts.

A lot of this collection is what I'd call "party" or special event clothes, but not in the sense of a formal evening gown. These are clothes to turn heads, but without a rhinestone or a bead, in sight. A standout was a "dandy's" outfit, mixing masculine and feminine: a pure white blouse with a huge ruffled front and collar of crystal pleats, paired with blakc pants and a fitted jacket. With an outfit this "showy" all you need is a pair of diamond stud earrings, and you're good to go! Another standout were two coats: one was a boxy, black and white tweed mid-length coat with a very large, shawl color. The other, a creamy ivory wool with a funnel neck and large buttons, that seemed very retro (think: Audry Hepburn in Charade).

I didn't go backstage for this one, but the main theme of the hair reminded me of party girl fone to sleep and this is the result in the morning. The hair was a "messy" bun with long pieces or tendrils deliberately falling out of it to the side. It was romantic, but I'd suspect it might be harder to accomplish at home than simply making a bun, and sleeping on it! The makeup was by NARS. I liked the matte, dark rose or warm red lips as the main focal point. I'll try to get the details from NARS and share them later on.