Fresh Faces from Fashion Week-Thursday September 11, 2009

As we remember the tragedy of September 11th, the excitement of Mercedes Bens Spring 2009 Fashion Week, continues:

Jay Manuel, is best known as the director of photo shoots on the reality TV show; American Next Top Model. He is in the front row at Reem Acra's show during the rehersal, with a young girl named "Britany" who apparently is being shown the Fashion Week "ropes" by Jay this week. I heard him giving the young girl tips about how to behave in the front row. Then he left her to go backstage and do an interview with designer Reem Acra. Yes, Jay is wearing a pleated...uhhh...skirt?

Amy Smilovic is the woman behind the Tibi designs. She paid a surprise visit to the American Express Skybox and graciously posed with me for a photo. The skybox is a special opportunity for American Express cardmembers. I will be blogging about my experience in the skybox, shortly!

A surprise guest, the radiant, Diane Von Furstenberg, electrified the American Express Skybox audience with her account of how she started in the fashion business, her feelings about being the genius behind the enduring "wrap dress," and her favorite charities. " I always wanted to empower women," said Diane. "Every woman is strong, even though sometimes you have to bring out that strength from deep within." She is certainly a role model for women, everywhere,

Dutch makeup artist David Stella with a stunning, Dutch model backstage at the G-Star runway show.

Sherrie and Britany, mother and daughter visiting the American Express Skybox at Bryant Park for Britany's 16th birthday. Britany wants to be a model --but both Mom and daughter are lovely, aren't they? Watch for the Advice Sisters Feature on the American Express Fashion Week Skybox experience..coming soon!

Model Aaron Lorenzo, in an eye-catching outfit at the Bryant Park TMobile/Blackberry Lounge

Designer Reem Acra's adorable pooch, "Lulu" --the best dressed doggie in the tents!

Aurora Nessly, one of the charming hostesses at the TMobile/Blackbery Lounge

Danity Kane and singer Ashanti backstage post-show with Designer Reem Acra (and "Lulu")

All content and photos (unless otherwise specifically marked) --Alison Blackman Dunham for the Advice Sisters copyright © 2008 all rights reserved by Alison Blackman Dunham of THE ADVICE SISTERS® The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark. Please feel free to link to this post. For other permissions, email the Advice Sisters advicesisters(at)advicesisters(dot)net

Fresh Faces from Fashion Week-Wednesday September 10, 2009

Jared is hard at work making flip-flops for weary feet, at the Haviannas booth. These are no ordinary thongs--they have a silhouette of the skyline and they're the most comfortable flip flops, ever!


Don't you love this smile (and the great hat)! Texas TV reporter braves the big apple to bring his reports to fans in Texas!



This model is literally painted with Ahava mud....proving that playing with mud is good, clean fun (and makes for a great, living advertisement, too)




Celebrity hair guru Kevin Mancuso took the time to pose with me at the Total Beauty suite, after telling us about last night's runway look for Vivienne Tam. He also told us about Nexus products and how they work.



Ahhh....after a long morning at the tents, a scalp massage helps ease tension, and foot pain!



Stylist Rosemary Ponzo on her cell phone in the front of the tents, behind the cool Mercedes Benz!



Designer/actress/socialite/reality start/ and all around nice person Esther Nash poses in front of the cool Mercedes Benz!


Lady Bunny and a friend (or perhaps, a superhero) at The Blondes

All content and photos --Alison Blackman Dunham for the Advice Sisters copyright © 2008 all rights reserved by Alison Blackman Dunham of THE ADVICE SISTERS® The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark. Please contact for permission to use content or photos.

Musings about the Begining of Spring 2008Fashion Week- "Cool Kids"

It has been a while since I posted anything because I've been working on the What Works Beauty, Cosmetics & Fashion Review column for September http://www.advicesisters.net.whatworkscol3.html/ including six special photo and text features from FALL 2007's Fashion Week (the link to these features is at the top of the What Works column). And, you'll be hearing a lot about Fashion Week in the coming days, as officially begins, tomorrow.

For me, Fashion Week starts when the invitations start appearing in the mail and (increasingly), by Email. The invites are exciting, colorful, and mysterious. Some arrive in oversized envelopes, some have overlays and beautiful for hard to read type and formatting, some are plain and to the point. They come as attchments in my email, and by snail mail in plain white envelopes, bright red ones, orange, yellow, green, and some, multi-colored. Waiting to see which designers (or their public relations firms) will send an invitation (let alone a seat assignment) reminds me of the anxious moments in elementary school, when Valentine's Day meant you would get a lot or many just a few tiny missives on your desk. This, before the decision by wise teachers that no child should be left out, and that every kid deserves to be "appreciated" by every other kid by getting an equal amount of Valentine's. But, back in the day, the "Cool Kids" got lots more valentines. You'd see them piling up on their desks --- big ones, little ones, oddly-shaped ones....not unlike finding the Fashion Week invitations in the mailbox.

If I get a LOT of Fashion Week invitations that doesn't necessarily mean that I'm "cool," but it does mean that someone has made the decision to allow me to see the show, and hopefully realizes the value it has if I can report on it for you. If I dont' get a lot of invites I DO feel less "loved," but this is a business, not a popularity contest. When it comes to Fashion Week, no one forces the designers and their public relations firms to give equal access.

For the fashionistas, buyers, etc. Fashion Week officially starts tomorrow, when the tents open and the shows begin. Today is my first day when I go to pick up my press badge at Bryant Park--and I'll be taking the train to do just that after I finish posting this. No matter how early I get there before the Noon call, there will already be a long, long, long, long line of photographers and other media professionals, to enter the tiny space that is the press office and pick up a plastic badge on a black neck lanyard that says "Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Spring 2008 Collections" and "Press & Industry" This special badge allows the registered media to enter the tents any time, although it does not guarantee entry into any of the shows (see above). The tents on their own are interesting...a melange of professional buyers and media who really need to be there, plus celebrities, curious fashion students, and the usual assortment of people in outrageous outfits, hoping to be featured in The Daily (the "daily magazine of Fashion Week) or some other media outlet. Come tomorrow, the tents will be crowded with people eager to see what will be "new" for Spring 2008.

There is always drama during Fashion Week. Last year, it was the unusually cold weather, forcing the less lucky last February to wait outside on standing room only lines in the "non-tent" venus, just to get a peek at Fall fashions. And, Anna Nicole Smith died, and that was the topic of a lot of conversations, too. No one can tell at this point how the Fashion Week stories will play out, but it'll be fun to experience them as they happen. As with conventions and vacations, and some really good casinos, you get wrapped up in the environment of Fashion Week and it becomes your "reality" for that time.

Stay tuned!

AdviceSisters.net photo features from Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007

Although I blogged about Mercedes Benz Fashion Week during February, 2007 (during the actual Fashion Week), I delayed putting together more detailed photo features until the Fashion and makeup were in the stores. Now that September is just a week away, I'd love to share these features from backstage and the runway, with you. The newest features are:

Ellen Tracy - http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/FWEllenTracy.html
Gustavo Arango - http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/gustavofw.html
Carmen Marc Valvo - http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/CarmenMVFW.html
Ellen Tracy - http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/FWEllenTracy.html
Araks - http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/FWAraks.html
Cynthia Rowley - http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/FWAraks.html
Alice Roi - http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/fwaliceroi.html
Alexandre Herchovitch - http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/fwHerchcovitch.html
Bill Blass, Alice Ritter, Akiko Ogawa, Gustavo Cadile, Rafael Cennamo, Venexiana, and Zang Toi
http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/fwvenexiana.html

I hope you enjoy them!

You can also find links to all the Fashion Week Features at: http://www.advicesisters.net/WitWisdom/articles3.html

and specific information about Fall cosmetics used on the runways on our What Works Beauty, Cosmetics & Fashion Review columns starting in September (going up next week) at: http://www.advicesisters.net/whatworkscol3.html


ALISON

Fashion Week--Must-Haves

In my post of February 1st on this blog I wrote: "for 7 days those of us involved in Fashion Week will live in an altered reality. There will be memorable people to meet, and some who aren't so nice. There will be connections to make, and some that only last for the amount of time you are standing on the line to enter the show. We will know what's coming in fashion, but we can't know what's coming for the next 7 days until we live them.

Fashion Week is over. Every season I've attended, I find the experience to be like a roller-coaster ride. First, there's the anticipation. Then, there's the growing excitement as the first shows reveal a glimpse of our fashion future (for the next season, at least). Mid-week, there's exaustion: "Why am I subjecting myself to the intensity of this?" The intensity continues to build as the shows draw to a close. Who will show us something new and exciting? Whose collection will flop? What other news will affect us? This year, the death of Anna Nicole Smith, and the bitterly cold weather, were two big topics of conversation.

On Friday, after all of the above, I always feel a bit of a let-down as I bid farewell to the tents, my 7-day home-away-from-home. But the title of this blog post is "Fashion Week Must Haves." Here's what I simply couldn't be without --- followed by things I would definitely ditch (if it were up to me), and a few closing thoughts on Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007:

Fashion Week Must-Haves:

Clothes: really warm coat (will definitely get dirty since it will be dragged on floors, spilled on backstage, and rumpled in standing room). Comfortable shoes (heels tend to turn into flats, and then into sneakers as the week goes by) . Gel pads for comfortable shoes (no shoe is really comfortable after you've been standing all day). Layered clothing (you're going to get HOT, and then COLD, and then HOT, and then COLD...)!

Handbag: this is the second season that I've used a Butler Bag to carry all my essentials. It is sturdy, with inside compartments that let you see exactly what is inside without fumbling and fishing. It has seen me through travel, interviews, launch parties, and even a few dinner dates!

Emergency Kit: Tape (for everything from a broken camera to a ripped hem), Batteries (for the two digital cameras, audio voice recorder, and MP3Player I carry), Aleve and Aspirin (for aching feet and bones); Pens and pads (lots of them)...the MAC booth is a godsend but thick-barrelled pens are easier on the hands when you're taking lots of notes; A great, lightweight tote (for all the above)

Makeup Must-haves: Lots of lip balm and treatments (Einstein Lip Theory, Z. Bigatti Re-Storation Lip Pout and Re-Storation Lip Envy, Damage Reveral Lip Treatment by Patricia Wexler, M.D., ANEW Clinical plump & Smooth by Avon), Hair products (Redken, Got2B, Warren Tricomi, Aveda, Bumble & Bumble), great brushes, and a hair straightener by Maxius.
Eye shadow that won't run, crease, or quit: Stila, Trish McEvoy, Laura Mercier, NARS, MAC)
Blush that won't run, crease, or quit (Boots No.7, Tarte, Jillian Dempsey for Avon). A great foundation and base that won't run, crease, or quit: Clarins Instant Smooth Perfecting Touch, Make Up For Ever Matte Velvet, Anew Age Transforming Foundation, Biotherm Light!). A great Mascara that won't run, flake, or fade: best of the best: Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Dior, Bourjois, Clinique...Q-Tips!....Great Hand and Body Creams (Zia Age-Defying Hand Treatment, Essie Smoothies, Lady Primrose Royal Extract Body Creme, Phytomer BodyRexlax).

Food: Thanks to DHL in the tents for the coffee, I really appreciated it. Still, you've got to eat sometime. If you don't want to leave the tents, and can't squeeze your way into the little "cafe" area inside, seasons past there were sponsors offering power bars, yogurt, mints, etc. This year, we got to look at gorgeous cars, but there wasn't a snack in site. Bring your own water, too. These are still given out, but bring your own water bottle or juice pack, if you want to be sure you are properly hydrated.

Business Cards: I can't believe how many people don't have them (or enough of them) for Fashion Week!

...Michael from New Jersey, a firefighter and Fashion Week Security Guard --and ALL the security guards and service personnel who are polite and patient (you guys have a rough job, and we all know it)! ...and Michael....definitely do enter yourself as a model for the next fire-fighters calender...you'll be a hunky hit!

DEFINITELY DITCH:

Overuse of the word "chicettes," chicas," "fashionistas" and "fabulous" (once or twice is ok but "gag me" when it's used more often)

Non-essential guests who get great seats, while members of the press and the buyers are standing in the back. Also impossibly long standing room lines that are first come first served. Suggestion to IMG: Why not let working press (who paid for the ability to report on the shows) move up to the front of the standing room line if they do not have assigned seats and the standing room line is very long? Press need to get in to to their jobs more than the merely curious do.

The ("new") idea that "by invitation only" (and you didn't get one) means you are apparently less "fabulous" than some other folks, while you are in full view of them (and a sign that says "be fabulous").

Daily suites once open to all with creds, now mystifying if you didn't get the "missive"

Internet writers who report on shows and parties as a clique of cronies, pretending that they were flooded with invitations (but only one person really gets in and files a report for all the others "as-if" ). Sharing info is ok, but please keep the internet credible and honest, and say your content is second hand.

Hotel lobbies where a "fash week" invitation gets you through to the elevators or else, you're left out in the cold.

Cold Weather...can't wait for Spring!

Some Final Thoughts On Mercedez Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007:

Fashion week is like a wedding: it brings out the best, and the worst, in the best in people. Mostly it brings out the best in them...but there are always a few exceptions. There are new connections to be made, and the type of instant bonding that takes place when you're all in the same place and situation, together. Easy laughter over a drink or a shared seat in the Lycra Lounge. Alas, there are also attendees who feel more "entitled" than others. they are rude and pushy. They take other people's assigned seats and refuse to move. Some even steal products out of goodie bags that or take entire bags that don't belong to them. We're not just talking one thing or one bag....-I saw a man literally take an ENTIRE ROW of little bags off the back row at a major show! How many beauty products or T-shirts could you really need?

And, while my own visibility continues to grow, I'm still aware that the fashion week I experience as a member of the Internet press is different from that of the very high profile press. I'm in the majority of journalists who attend to do a job, and pass the information on to people who will probably never get closer to the tents than seeing them on TV. We do not arrive in furs and limo at the last minute, waving an invite with a seat assignment already on it (front row, or second row at the very worst). We do not walk directly to our seats...we wait..and wait...and wait some more. We do have a shared experience with the "Annas" and "Patricks" and other "must-have" front-row faces, though: we are united in our interest in being part of the experience, and viewing the newest clothes and trends.

I feel fortunate to receive press credentials to cover these shows as I have done for a number of seasons (I believe that I was one of the first Internet writers to receive credentials). I feel even more fortunate that I have a network of related professionals who know my work, understand the power of the Internet (and the power of my international audience), and respect my professionalism,. Due to them, I was able to cover more of backstage than ever before. My sincere appreciation to all of you that made it possible to pass information and experiences on to my readers.

My writing is always first-hand. If I don't experience something, I don't pretend that I did, just to boost ratings or readers. My style is 100% "up-close-and-personal." So....to the designers and sponsors who don't know me or are not sure they need my online coverage need to, let me show you what I can do. If you, or any of your assistants/friends/staff/colleagues/publicists/clients read The Advice Sisters through this blog, my web site, the What Works Beauty, Cosmetics & Fashion Review columns, my bi-monthly Enews, or my Myspace.com page and like what has been written about other designers, maybe next year I will get close enough to your clothes, products or services to report on them! Please contact me and put me on your media list.

See you NEXT season!

Cynthia Rowley, Rocks it with Redken and Avon

Cynthia Rowley's runway show at the great and glamorous Gotham Hall was one of my favorites last season, and this year didn't disappoint either. I'll talk about the clothes briefly here, but will be adding more about them in a full feature in a few weeks focusing also on the hair (by fabulous REDKEN) and the makeup (a brilliant, new Cynthia Rowley for AVON Fall 2007 Color Collection). I checked to see who is reading this block, and discovered that along with all the readers the Advice Sisters have in English speaking countries, the past few entries in this blog have been translated into a number of languages, the most popular being French, Chinese, German, Japanese, Turkish, Korean, Dutch; Flemish, Arabic, and Greek ! I am flattered that someone would take the time to translate "The Advice Sisters!" If you are visiting this blog, please let me know. Leave a COMMENT! I'd appreciate it.

But back to Cynthia Rowley: As I walked through the backstage area, I spied a group of people with needle and thread, quietly stitching together what seemed to be a 30-foot brunette braid (3o foot braid?!). I was informed by REDKEN lead stylist Rodney Cutler that this giant braid was for the finale of the show. It would be attached to the head of just one model, and the rest of the models would hold it as the walked their last looks down the runway. As they stiched the braids together to make one long chain, it writhed and wiggled like a giant snake emerging from primordial ooze. It was a bit freaky, actually, but looked great on the runway and got murmurs and a few giggles from the audience.

As you might have already guessed, it was braids that were the theme of the hair for the Cynthia Rowley show. Rodney didn't do "pigtail" type braids, but instead, sophisticated, sleek, shiny hair with no part held tight to the head by a number of REDKEN styling products (see a view of the products below). How much and what was used depended upon the texture and length of the model's hair, but as you can see from the photo on the right, all those REDKEN products may each girls' hair sleek and shiny. The finished look was youthful (as are Cynthia Rowley's clothes), but still sophisticated, fresh and pretty, not silly, wacky, or out of place.

Actually, I got the the Gotham Hall early, before my REDKEN contacts arrived, but discovered that most of my contacts from the public relations firm Tractenberg, were already in place at the doors and inside the backstage area (they were handling the PR for AVON and for the press reception for the Cynthia Rowley for AVON Fall 2007 Color Collection) after the show. I was eager to see it.

AVON has several new collections that are quite beautiful, and the one For the Cynthia Rowley show is stunning! You are going to want to buy all o fit. As luck with have it, the lead on the collection, Jillian Dempsey, had just given birth to twins a few days prior, so she had her friend, makeup artist Tina Turnbow do the model's makeup instead. FYI: Tina learned her craft by assisting celebrated makeup artists such as Kay Montano and Pat McGrath, and works with celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Natalie Portman, Anne Hathaway, Julianne Moore, and Joan Allen, among others.

As with many of the makeup looks for Fall, this one for Cynthia Rowley is all about the EYES (are you getting the theme for Fall, 2007 from all these blog entries?) . I had the opportunity to see Tina apply the makeup to the first model and explain it to her assistants. I was sitting down among them (maybe not such a good idea, but I knew I'd been on my feet for hours, and it was a free chair). At one point, Tina suddenly stopped what she was doing, and looked right at me : "Who are YOU?" she said in a voice that reminded me of the Caterpillar on the Hookah in Alice in Wonderland. "Uh, Oh, I'm a writer and reporter" I mumbled (as humble as Dorothy adressing the Wizard). Thankfully, one of the lovely women from Tractenberg confirmed my reason for being there and once the mystery was cleared up. Tina went right back to work, and I went right back to work too, taking notes!

The new, AVON Cynthia Rowley makeup collection is remarkable, not just for it's wearable and quite beautiful palette, but also because it translated uniquely to each model. I'm not going give away the secrets to getting this beautiful Cynthia Rowley makeup look from AVON today....you'll have to wait until my feature on the show is posted on the Advice Sisters Web Site http://www.advicesisters.net....but I will say that the collection will be available through AVON for Fall 2007 and it will work it's magic for you as well *Watch my FEATURES PAGE on advicesisters.net http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html for a complete description of how to get the goods, and do the look (coming in a few weeks).

The look was all about a fresh face (no foundation, just a bit of brightening powder, concealer and a dusting of face powder if necessary). As with most of the shows I've seen this week, the focus is all on the eyes. This time, in a palette of violet and grey with some shimmer and lots of mascara. The model I quickly snapped in the photo above is a thousand times more beautiful than this photo shows, but it gives you a great look at the eyes. Note that the lips are pink and very, very shiny. The new Cynthia Rowley Color Collection for AVON lip gloss is unbelievable!a definite must have for your Fall makeup wardrobe.

As you can see from the model above, the eyes are the thing. The look was all about a fresh face (no foundation, just a bit of brightening powder, concealer and a dusting of face powder if necessary). Eyes were done in a palette of violet and grey (with some shimmer) and lots of mascara. There was just a bit of pink blush to warm up the face. The model I quickly snapped in the photo above is much more beautiful than this photo shows, but it gives you a great look at the eyes. Note that the lips are pink and very, very shiny. The new Cynthia Rowley Color Collection for AVON lip gloss is unbelievable!a definite "must have" for your Fall makeup wardrobe.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-ARAKS

I wondered what time the PR staff from People's Revolution had to get up to be at the front of the Altman Building. There they were, and all smiles too, when I arrived at 9:45 A.M. on Super Bowl Sunday. More amazingly, as always, the PR people were beautifully dressed up, even though it was ever chillier today than yesterday and they were sitting right behind the front doors. Since I already knew where backstage was from Gustavo Arango's show on Saturday, I immediately made my way downstairs to the back stage area, to interview James Boehmer, the lead makeup artist for NARS Cosmetics. I met Rachel, my friendly, helpful contact from NARS, and she introduced me to James. I guess I got there a bit later than usual, because many of the models were already "done," but there were still some being made up. James graciously stopped what he was doing to chat with me, stopping our interview only occasionally to check one of the other makeup artists' work.

As you can see from this close-up, this look for ARAKS for Fall is about a balanced, fresh feeling on the entire face. It's not just eyes, or cheeks, or lips. James said the look was inspired by Elizabeth Bennett in Pride and Prejudice (and that was totally in keeping with the romantic nature of the clothes, too). I loved the slightly flushed, "English rose" cheeks and soft pink lip and you will too, it's just about perfect to add some life to your complexion, especially since you'll be wearing a lot of soft and subdued colors this Fall. The Fall ARAKS look is all about the skin...a flawless but fresh face, NARS "Turkish Red" Cream blush and "Desire" pink powder blush adding a hit of color, but not harsh or brash. "Blend, blend, blend" advises James. On Eyes was part of a new shadow duo that won't be available until the end of August, but worth the wait. "Calahari" is a soft brown" that was blended with another new color "Voyage," a soft fawn with a bit of glitter. On lips, NARS"Tempest" lip gloss --a pink with a bit of mauve, but softened so that it will be universally flattering. It looked beautiful on all the models. This is less about "drama" or making a "statement," and more about bringing your own, natural, glowing, beauty. I'll be posting more photos of makeup and hair, and the clothes, of course, shortly on the Advice Sisters web --- check our FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html for all the latest after Fashion Week, along with "do-the-look" makeup instructions, courtesy of NARS.

After speaking with James, I wandered over to Peter Elofsson and his artistic team from RUSK. Peter did the hair for ARAKS last season, too. When I arrived, he was busy using a straightening/smoothing iron on a model. Peter explained that his look for ARAKS was inspired by the elegance of the clothes--a soft of Catherine Deneuve feel, but with more "street" (meaning; texture) in it. You'll see that in my photos. Nearly all of the models had long hair, so the "texture" was added by "bending" the hair a bit (you can see this clearly in my photos, which I'll be using in my photo essays on the Advice Sisters Web Site. Hair had a side part and some models had a tiny silver barette holding a few pieces back to the side. Then, hair was sprayed with a RUSK hair spray to keep it in place, but still swingy. For Fall, Peter says long hair isn't just going to "hang" anymore, but will have a sharper edge and more details.

FYI: Creative Nail design (they did the nails for ARAKS last season, too) did the model's manicures with "Fedora," a very dark polish, and "Decadence," a translucent red.


and the ARAKS collection clothes? Unlike the Spring season's diaphanous clothes, these were more substantial for Fall, with soft movement from rich wools, silk and cotton fabrics. There was some color in this collection, although it was still subdued and mostly dark shades of blue, berry, green, and silver (plus the usual black, ivory, coal, and white) One that I particularly liked was a wool/cotton double face dress with bell sleeves that was in a color called "Night," just a shade lighter than the color of the sky just before all the light dies after the day is over. Another was a coat in a color I'd call "Raspberry" but I think it was called "Gooseberry" in the show description. It was tailored, but with gathering in the back, so it looked dressy, and elegant. A pine silk twill drop shoulder dress with drop puff sleeve was fresh and young, and very pretty. The fashion critics may disagree with me, but the only "miss" for me were the outfits with knickers or shorts, paired with lace-up boots. "Hot pants" or long knickers are "stage-y" and cute for a party, but not flattering on everyone. A cute look that is easy to wear and modern, were the lace-up ankle boots with traditional "oxford" detailing shown with many of the outfits.

Venexiana-Sat Feb 3rd-Mercedes Benz Fashion Week

My last show on Saturday night was Kati Stern Venexiana. I was tired, but really excited to see this show. I wondered if the super-cold weather and the Saturday night schedule would thin out the crowd, but by showtime, the venue was packed! I didn't have backstage access for this one, but Paul Labrecque did the hair and makeup for this show, and nails were by Creative Nail Design. Front my front-row seat, I could see that the focus was on glossy pink lips, with expressively-done eyes in earth-toned shadows, but very well defined. Hair was side-parted, long, flowing, bouncy and full of body and wavy curls. The look was pretty and modern, but with womanly (not little girl) elegance and a hint of "avant-garde."

Venexiana 's clothes are similar: modern, but especially in the evening gowns, there was a definite red carpet elegance--and just a bit of "off-beat" in a silvery rope draped around a black evening gown and trailing up and over one shoulder, for example, for a beautiful coat cinched with a huge belt. Another trend this season is undeniably socks. At Venexiana, high-heeled suede and leather pumps (some in bright colors such as turquoise,platform "tap shoes," and some in unexpected, grey suede) were worn with ankle or knee socks, even with flowing dresses such as flowing, polka-dot one in the photo I took, below:

I am wondering whether or not you need to purchase new shoes a size larger to allow for these bulky socks. Your budget might not allow for new shoe purchases to fit this trend, but

this "little girl" look is somehow, likeable (not to mention it's got to be warmer than wearing hose).

The designer, Katie Stern studied fashion, architecture and music, and designed costumes for Carnevale in Venice where she also spends a lot of her time. Her collection for Fall, 2007 really did mix a lot of unusual fabrics together in unique ways, such as leather with lace and metal and fur. There weren't any PETA people outside the tents that I could see, and the fur coats going down the runway were covet-able and luxe, some (as I mentioned above) paired with wide belts that made these coats, which could have been otherwise bulky, almost dress-like. The evening gowns were done in luxury fabrics of silk, charmeuse, chiffon, and accented in some cases with sparkling, Swarovki crystals. Predominant colors were chocolate and grey, with some taupe and black and hits of color through accessories. At the end, however, the designer herself took a turn down the runway, wearing a bright chartreuse dress with satin ruffled collar and chiffon flounce at the bottom (for more photos of the show including the designer, check our advice sisters web site FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in the coming weeks for the link to my photo essay on Venexiana!

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Alice Roi

It was cold. Very cold. Too cold. I wondered whether or not I should dress for fashion's sake, or to stay warm. The emotional side of me screamed "you've got to look good!" The practical side said: "It is only Saturday and Fashion Week has really just begun...stay warm and don't get sick."

I opted for a compromise: a robin's egg blue wool jacket reversed with peach, and a camisole that complimented those colors. Pants and black sneakers (I knew I was going to be on my feet from 9am-11pm) and an old down jacket that could be dumped on the floor backstage (so I could juggle my handbag, pen and paper, voice recorder and two cameras without holding a jacket, too).

Anyway, the first stop was Alice Roi. I got there fairly early which meant I got to see Stephane Marais for Bourjois do the model's "model" for all the other Bourjois makeup artists. I will be doing full features with photos on this show in the next few weeks, but I'll give you a preview: the look is all about the eyes. A fresh face and nude, moist lips, but the focus is all on the eyes. Stephane used grey and black metallic and smudged and smoothed and dabbed and smudged...all around the model's eyes. The look was a as if you'd used a lot of non-waterproof eye liner and shadows, and didn't wash it off before bedtime and you rubbed your eyes in teh night. The effect would be soft and smudged around your eyes--but obviously, a much more controlled version walked down the runway! When I spoke to the gracious Celine from Bourjois, she said that the makeup artists were using existing Bourjois products, which means you can "get the look" now if you want to jump ahead a season.

Stephane explained that the look was to compliment Alice Roi's theme and clothes, which was inspired by the beloved book about a little French girl: Madeline (my favorite book growing up). So the makeup was youthful and fresh, but with the deep, smoky eye, a not-so-innocent schoolgirl!

The hair, by Neil Moodie for Bumble and Bumble, was interesting. The models were wearing ponytail extensions made of soft strips of frosted plastic that looked to me like the fringes in a car wash. Hair was pulled sleekly back in mid-crown ponytails. I'll be writing more about the hair on the Advice Sisters Web Site http://www.advicesisters.net/ in the next few weeks. An interesting note was that three of the models (only three) wore short, black wigs. That added a nice balance to the sweetness of the "Madeline" vibe.

I wasn't staying for the show, because I was going to visit backstage at Alexander Herchcovitch, but I did get a sneak peek at the clothes. As yesterday, the colors were austere: black, more black, and black, and some brown and a bit of off-white. There were a lot of chunky knits, worn with (get this): Knee socks and platform shoes of various types. It channeled "Madeline" but more in a Shinjuku punk than very young child. There were some small plaid patterns, primarily in brown tones, some paired with lacy tops to add additional softness. The one bright spot was a sleeveless, swingy, micro-mini dress in a riot of acid pink, orange, white and topped and trimmed with black that looked like something I wore proudly in the 60's. I don't know where it fit into Fall, but it was fun, flirty, and a welcome relief from dark neutrals.


I arrived at the appointed time for Alexander Herchcovitch and was told to come back in half and hour. Nearly two hours later (it was an early call) I finally managed to get backstage to interview the MAC makeup artists and check out the hair. I am off to ARAKS this morning and will write about this show, as well as Gustavo Arrango, and Venexiana, when I get home tonight. It is Superbowl Sunday, but you, my readers, come first!

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Akiko Ogawa

Later in the day, I went to the Akiko Ogawa runway show in the tents. I got there early, and saw my friend Ester Nash on line for another show. How nice to see her! She's such a lovely woman.

As I was checking in for Akiko Ogawa, I ran into another person I know--Steven Bender. He now has his own PR company and is doing lots of interesting things. We had time to catch up for a few minutes. He's one of the "nice guys," too.

But on to the show: the theme is "the masculine look of a British rock star softened into feminine form and laced with elements of 'wabi sabi' (the distinctily Japanese aesthetic of refined rusticity and elegant simplicity considered the highly prized qualities in the traditional arts).

To break that down, the clothes were a mixture of punk bluntness, and soft silk kimono..a perfect fusion of Japanese downtown girls, with geisha elements. Scottish tartan (mostly with green and blue) showed up in pleated skirts, paired with rock-star black.

The audience and the clothes seem "youthful" but in truth, I could see nearly anyone taking pieces from the 39 pieces shown in this collection and making them work. There were skinny pants, mostly in black, along with charcoal gray, but there was some color. The pink used as accents apparently was inspired by the flower of the peony tree. One of the most beautiful pieces was a deep pink kimono tunic, worn with a low-slung Swarovski crystal studded belt. The most beautiful pieces were these silky kimono-styles, worn as dresses and tunics. The models seemed to float down the runway in these. I liked the oversized obi" type sashes that added a distinctly Japanese flair. I also particularly liked a black cropped "military" type jacket with large crystal "buttons" that added sparkle, and some of the jackets and sweaters with faux-fur trim. To add that punk attitude, a variety of platform black leather shoes prevailed. Add a chunky boot to a tartan skirt and you've got just the right mix.

The collection is fun, eye catching, and a welcome relief from the austere. Noda Norikata at MAO did strong, smoky eyes and pale faces. Hair, from Dennis Lanni for Bumble & Bumble was stark -- a sort of modern Louise Brooks short black bob with thick bangs for most of the models. This added a distinct rock star meets the East sensibility that went well with the clothes.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Alice Ritter

Fashion Week has begun!

My first show was Alice Ritter at the Players Club in the chic, Grammercy Park area. It was cold and of course, I arrived on the wrong side of the Park and had to walk around three sides of it to get to my destination.

Inside, young girls in white T-shirts with the simple Alice Ritter logo in black letters, were all smiles. I got there close to start time (I know from experience that most fashion shows do not really start on time) and noticed the cozy club was already packed with chattering fashionistas. Two Alice Ritter staffers, chattering in melodic tones, in French, were sitting on one of three available couches, on opposite ends. They moved over so I could sit down, and I gratefully sank into the leather couch for the "wait" (which turned out to be about 35 minutes). While sitting, I chatted with a young woman who said she was there as an Assistant Buyer for the Isetan department store in Japan. So many buyers and press (yours truly included) didn't have seat assigments! We were finally ushered into a "great hall" lined with imposing oil paintings of what I presume were the founders or past presidents of the Players Club, squeezing ourselves through a gauntlet behind three rows of tightly packed (and mostly filled) seats. We filed in slowly, and I realized that there was an open seat right in front of where the line ended. The lights were just about to go out so I sat down. Alas, anyone not in the front row had an obstructed view.

But the clothes (from what I could see of them) were worth the wait. Down the runway came the most romantic if "costumy" clothes I've seen in a long time. They Edwardian inspired collection featured the most fantastic cropped jackets with nipped-in waists and long, tiered, flouncy back treatments. These were paired with nicely tailored, wide-legged, pants, and romantic, full skirts. Alice Ritter uses a mixture of woven fabrics, and since it was a Fall collection, there was a lot of substantial wool, heavy cotton, and silk. The colors were extremely austere: black, black and more black, and some grey, olive green, and a bit of "caramel, plus a bunch of blouses and dresses in silky, royal purple fabrics. What added spark was silky shine, and some sparkle or sheen in the fabrics of the jackets and skirts.

A lot of this collection is what I'd call "party" or special event clothes, but not in the sense of a formal evening gown. These are clothes to turn heads, but without a rhinestone or a bead, in sight. A standout was a "dandy's" outfit, mixing masculine and feminine: a pure white blouse with a huge ruffled front and collar of crystal pleats, paired with blakc pants and a fitted jacket. With an outfit this "showy" all you need is a pair of diamond stud earrings, and you're good to go! Another standout were two coats: one was a boxy, black and white tweed mid-length coat with a very large, shawl color. The other, a creamy ivory wool with a funnel neck and large buttons, that seemed very retro (think: Audry Hepburn in Charade).

I didn't go backstage for this one, but the main theme of the hair reminded me of party girl fone to sleep and this is the result in the morning. The hair was a "messy" bun with long pieces or tendrils deliberately falling out of it to the side. It was romantic, but I'd suspect it might be harder to accomplish at home than simply making a bun, and sleeping on it! The makeup was by NARS. I liked the matte, dark rose or warm red lips as the main focal point. I'll try to get the details from NARS and share them later on.

my Day of Beauty at Warren Tricomi Salon

When I was born, my hair was a bright orange that turned light blonde. As a child, it was strawberry blonde, with coppery strands that glinted like fire in the sun. It was so unusual that my mother sometimes asked me if I "did something" to it to make it that color. I didn't. My hair might be frizzy, curly and sometimes, uncooperative, but it always was a beautiful color.

Nothing lasts forever. When a few strands of silver started to clash with the copper, I freaked! I ran to a swanky (and expensive) salon, thinking I'd whisk away the greys with a few highlights. Alas, the colorist and I were apparently speaking different languages, and when I left, I had dark red hair! I had to admit it was a change (and change is good), but not that good--I hated it! Worse, I quickly learned that you get a "skunk line" down the middle of your head the minute the color starts to fade and your hair starts to grow. I couldn't afford the time, money and effort to keep touching it up and I longed for my own, nautural color back.

A friend (whose blonde hair I always thought was completely natural) came to the rescue with another salon that was the direct opposite of swanky (you change in the bathroom and put your things on a hook along with the stylist's lunch and shopping), but the colorist was personable, and she listened to what my needs were instead of imposing her vision. Best of all, the neighborhood was fun to visit--almost like being in another city entirely. She managed to get my hair somewhat back to "normal" between blonde, and red.

But nothing lasts forever. Too much hair dye over too long a period of time made my hair dry and brassy. Worse, it was splotchy. I waited as long as I could stand it, and when it was not only brassy, but faded, I'd had enough....and that's how I ended up at the Warren Tricomi salon on 57th Street in Manhattan.

I admit I was nervous. The salon is pricey and in the high-rent district off 5th avenye, a far cry from the low-key operation I'd been visiting. But my hair was really a mess, and Fashion Week is coming. I figured I wouldn't look any worse, and with luck, I'd look a lot better.

I felt a bit better being greeted at the door by an outgoing, stylish man named Paul who called me by name (nice touch). He directed to change (not in a bathroom but in a dressing room with beautiful, silk, maroon drapes) and to take a seat. I wasn't seated more than just a couple of minutes when colorist Simone's Assistant greeted me and brought me a glass of ice water (there is a complete "bar" at Warren Tricomi which is a nice touch if you are going to be there a while). Simone introduced herself and was very businesslike. I know that the salon is frequented by socialites, celebrities, and high-profile regulars. The thought was a bit intimidating, so I let it drop that we were both in the "beauty biz" but in different part of it. "Well, then I'd better do a good job," Simone gently joked.

I won't bore you with all the conversation, but Simone (very gently) informed me of something I already knew but didn't want to face: that as you age your hair color and perhaps, even the tone of your skin, changes. Some people go grey, some get darker. In my case, I didn't have much grey, but my strawberry blonde hair was not the same color anymore (is there anything really good about aging?). In any case, Simone suggested that I make my hair lighter without any red.

Red has always been my trademark....I wondered whether I should trust this virtual stranger. But Warren Tricomi is known for amazing makeovers (I've seen them do their magic on tv shows) and of course, they work their magic on models for designers at Fashion Week. The salon uses Redken and Wella products, and also has it's own line of signature products as well (I will be reviewing some of them in the next couple of What Works Beauty, Cosmetics & Fashion review columns). Looking around the large salon with it's slightly "Moroccan" and very chic vibe, and assessing the other patrons (who were not at all strange-looking), mostly expensively dressed and attractive, I decided to go with Simone's professional opinion. After, all, I am someone who writes abuot beauty and fashion, who is a certified image consultant, and who is known for giving advice about life and career to others--but when it comes to myself...well, let's just say I can be as myopic as the next person.

In a flash, Simone foiled, mixed, brushed on, and applied color to fix the blotches and turn my straw back into gold. A treatment that I think is one of the new, Warren Tricomi product lines made it soft and shiny. My hair was transformed into a beautiful shade of something that might have been closer to the way it was when I was a child...not blonde, not red...unique..and I got the few, subtle highlights I longed for when I first started this hair-color journey! Before I knew it I also had an amazing cut by Emiliano (adorable to look at and talented as well) that made my hair straight, swingy and stylish.

I walked down the street with attitude...and the salespeople at Bergdorf's were very attentive (they usually totally ignore me). Even the check-out lady at the market seemed a bit friendlier! They say money can't buy happiness...but it CAN buy great hair!

It has been a while since I've looked in the mirror and loved what I see. Now, I do.