Carmen Marc Valvo Spring 2009 Runway Show- Elegance, Always, Squared!

One show I consider a "can't miss" at any cost, is Carmen Marc Valvo's runway show for his latest collection. Each season, Valvo's amazing attention to detail and elegant, ladylike, powerful designs, simply enchant all who see them on the runway. Later on, these wearable, elegant, sophisticated designs look beautiful on women fortunate to own them. In Fall 2008, the designer focused on details such as hats and feathers, but for Spring 2009, the simple square became the designer's inspiration, and perhaps, obsession.



You can see the sophistication in the close ups I took backstage. "Tiles" of metallic leather were sewn onto metallic organza and organza tweeds, balancing flowing fabrics with structure. Along with the squares, checkerboard weaving, and materials woven together, there was plenty of evidence of Carmen Marc Valvo's signature draping, twisting, and knotting. Interestingly, although long, "red-carpet" gowns predominated in Fall 2008, this Spring 2009 collection featured as many or more pretty cocktail dresses, skirts, and pants that could transition from day to evening with the right accessories. Some standouts in the collection (and there were many) included a clear, plastic raincoat with a design of squares, worn over capri pants; sheer and shimmery tops over elegant, slouchy pants; and bathing suits meant for nothing more than elegant sunbathing, including a black, bandeau bikini that was bare, but not too bare. Chunky black mules and eyewear (from the Carmen Marc Valvo Collection) were must-haves.





This season the mixture of fabrics, such as patent leather squares sewn on to a wool skirt, or leather woven into tweedy fabric, were a new twist on classics, I particularly liked the designs that features a basketweave of silky "ribbons" artfully woven to create a textured "fabric" that looked entirely new and different. Here you can see a green dress on instructions to the dresser, and my view of it from the runway.


The designer is also known for his artful draping. Here are some examples.



photo courtesy Mercedes Benz photo courtesy Mercedes Benz




For elegant and modern clothes like these, you have to have dramatic makeup. "The dark eye gives a touch sexiness and the lips are pale because they have to be kissable." explained Tom Pecheux, lead makeup artist for M.A.C. Cosmetics. The first photo shows the concept photos the rest of the M.A.C. Pro team will follow. The rest of the look was explained to me by Keri Blair, Senior Makeup Artist for M.A.C. The eyes were a blended a combination of dark brown cream eyeliner and black felt-tip liner. MAC Eye Shadow in Smut gave eyes a feline shape, and a clear gloss and gold-pearl pigment were smudged over the lids. Tip: For a shimmery highlight, sinply mix a pearlescent pigment with a gloss texture, and sweep the mix under the eyebrows for a glossy highlight." The face look was described at: "She's a woman who just came off the beach and freshened up for cocktails." The elegant, glowing lookw as created with apricot blush and contoured bronze cheeks. The "kissable" lip was created with a nude cream lipstick on an UNlined, lip.

Lead Hair Stylist Odile Gilbert for Redken, is no stranger to creating runway hair magic. She once told me that do-it-yourself hair simply won't work with complex styles--certainly not with this type of updo. To get the look, "See your stylist," she has often advised.

Odile used a number of Redken products on smooth, straightened hair to create the look, including a new Redken product called Iron Silk #07 to straighten hair with a flat iron, and Forceful #23 Hair Spray, to keep the chignon in place. The black clip in the middle added a classic touch to the style.

Creative Nail Design's Lulu Cooper applies two shades of CND polish, custom-mixed, for Carmen's show, to a mode's fingertips. "Smooch" is a pearly white, and "Negligee" is a pretty, subdued nude shimmer. Nudes will be popular in the Spring, but in a slightly more opaque form. And, metallic shades that give a soft patina rather than a garish glitter will be popular, too in color like Copper and antique gold, and gunmetal. Roxanne from Creative Nail Design suggest this: "if you're wearing color on your hands, go nude on toes--and vice-versa." Roxanne also says the shape of nails, now, is almond-shaped and medium length. Color them in a light shade like beige or baby pink -- a great way to go if your nails aren't long and strong. Think Cher in the 1970's. In the next photo, nail artists Lulu and Angie are on the floor, doing pedicures. This is definitely exhausting work!

Just prior to showtime, I was directed to my seat by Alyssa Ford, one of the many interns who volunteer to be ushers at Bryant park during fashion week. Alyssa is currently an intern at Michael Kors. Usher have their work cut out for them, dealing with some of the "personalities" that attend the shows....and you're on your feet for hours (as are members of the press), but you get to experience Fashion Week first hand, up-close-and-personal. I've never heard one of these energetic interns, complain.

When you get to the backstage early, you often get the chance to see a designer checking out his own backstage, first before the photographers and reporters charge in. Here, Carmen is chatting with Angie from Creative Nail Design. Later, he is interviewed by Full Frontal Fashion's Judy Licht.........and other reporters from around the world.

All too soon, it is time for the finale.....
....The show is ending. Carmen takes his bow, embraces a model....

....and goes backstage to receive congratulations from celebrities such as Emmy Rossum, who, I caught waving goodbye to Carmen, just as the security guards allowed members of the press, backstage.

.....it's Friday....and I have one more show to go before Fashion Week ends!

All content and photos (unless otherwise specifically marked) --Alison Blackman Dunham for the Advice Sisters copyright © 2008 all rights reserved by Alison Blackman Dunham of THE ADVICE SISTERS® The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark. Please feel free to link to this post. For other permissions, email the Advice Sisters advicesisters(at)advicesisters(dot)net

Carmen Marc Valvo-Ready for the Red Carpet

I have had the pleasure of reviewing Carmen Marc Valvo's last five Fashion Week collections, and I've had the good fortunate to have been invited backstage for most of them. This has given me an opportunity to see the designer's fashion in an up-close-and-personal way, and to appreciate the artistry and care that goes into each and every one of these special event and "red carpet ready" pieces.


Before a runway show can be ready for the spotlight, the models must be transformed by hair, nails and makeup. For hair, lead hair stylist Odile Gilbert for Redken 5th Avenue gave a two word answer when I asked her the vision for this season's show. She said: "chic and simple." The elegant, braided bun she created looks to be part Heidi, part Helmut Newton, part Robert Palmer Girl . I've seen so many sleek buns this week, and this one was no exception -- super-sleek and shiny, flat against the head in the front, and with all the interest and texture in the back. This type of style focuses all the attention on your face and gown as you walk into the room, but when you walk away, the elegant twists and updos of your hair gives an interesting view, and it can stand up well to this season's plunging and draped backlines.


For Carmen Marc Valvo's show, the model's hair was smoothed with Redken #16 Hardware, a super-strong gel that adds control and lots of shine. In some cases, extra help to straighten and smooth hair was given with a glamorous new flat iron by Linea Pro that was ready for it's own closeup, completely studded completely with glittering, Swarovski Crystals. After hair was smoothed, put into a ponytail, and made into two braids, it was twisted and held in a braided "bun" thanks to a hidden barette. Finally, lots of Redken Workforce #09 working spray and also Force Field# 23 (the strongest holding spray Redken makes) were added as necessary. TIP TO DO-IT-YOURSELF-ERS: Odile has often told me that truly polished updos and chignons really require a good stylist (and at least an extra pair of hands). You can approximate the style with the Redken products I've described...if it's not as neat and slick as the ones Odile created for the show, well....a slightly less perfect style is also a fashionable for Fall, so you'll be fine!



Here is model Katie in finished hair (from the front) and the eye-catching makeup look. I spoke to John Stapleton, Senior Artist for the MAC Pro Team about the makeup. As you can see, this look is all about the lips. The face is matte (or at least powdered as a finishing touch), and the eyes are lightly done, as are the brows. But the lipstick is a magenta red (Russian Red) that is so vibrant and strong, you can't help but stare at the model's lips. FOR DO IT YOURSELF-RS: This blue-based red color might not work well with everyone's skin tone. John Stapleton suggests that women pick a red lipstick for Fall, but get the one that is best for them. Use a pencil to line, color in the lips, and then fill in with your new, red lipstick. He also urges women to try different versions of red instead of leaving the decision to the makeup artist at the counter, because everyone's vision of what "red" is, can be very different. Once you have found your perfect red you can and will wear this bold color with confidence! He also urges women to ask questions at the makeup counter, and ask for a hand mirror so you can see the makeup artist applying the colors....if you don't, you will not be able to re-create the look as well, at home.


Patent Leather was the Creative Nail Design polish used for this show. You can get this one, right now!

A designer doesn't just create a collection, he has to be able to talk comfortably about his or her vision to the press. Here's the designer, Carmen Marc Valvo, giving one of many interviews before his runway show begins. I always wonder how designers manage to stay so cool and calm before a show, while everyone else around is creating mini-mayhem!

Models always look calm and collected, but they get nervous too. Almost every model I've ever asked has told me she is most afraid of falling on the catwalk. With the sky-high stilettos and huge, chunky shoes so popular with designers, it's probably a valid fear! This is the view of the runway the models see before they step out on the catwalk, but of course, when they do, every single seat will be filled.

This season featured fur, feathers (ostriches and pheasants, and even on evening pumps--these by Carmen Marc Valvo), and lots of fabulousness for his high profile clients. But the gowns were less glittery in terms of sequins, rhinestones and beads, and got their glamour instead from lace, fur, feathers, and beautifully-constructed details such as a crisp cascades of ruffles --doesn't it look like a black bird of paradise flower? . There was also a lot of illusion netting to add a sexy and glamorous lingerie touch to the bodice, and elegant, draping, too. And, when it comes to accessories, Carmen Marc Valvo included many details, including long gloves, feather-trimmed cloches with wide brims that were worn even with evening gowns, as were some items from his new eyeglass collection. The red specs worn with a red evening gown had myopic ladies, silently cheering from their seats. Could four eyes be more chic than two, this year?




The tent is very dark and if you're not one of the A-listers sitting close to the catwalk, photography can be challenging. Here are two of my personal photos. ,The white gown on the model in the photo below to the right, had the most amazing strapless treatment, with a stiff ruffle on the front that looked like a small dove with one outstretched wing reaching out from the gown in a demure wave.

Celebrities crowded the backstage, and these ladies are wearing....Carmen Marc Valvo (what else?)! After the show model Katie, posed in a midnight satin black crepe tuxedo pantsuit with a midnight corset top from Carmen Marc Valvo's glam new line of lingerie with Cosabella. She patiently allowed a persistant photographer to take photos after the show...over, and over and over...he couldn't seem to get enough shots.

Feel free to LINK to this post, but do not take anything you see on this blog or spidered by search engines without written permission. All text and photos © 2008 all rights reserved by Alison Blackman Dunham of THE ADVICE SISTERS® The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark. For permission to use this content, please contact advicesisters(at)advicesisters(dot)net

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 9/11/07- Carmen Marc Valvo

Outside, it was dreary and gloomy, a fitting atmosphere to remember 9/11, but inside the Bryant Park tents, Carmen Marc Valvo whisked us away to a world of Springtime glamour. Beloved for his red-carpet gowns, the designer's collection this morning also featured shorter cocktail dresses a bit of daywear, and some swimsuits that would make any woman feel like a celebrity. As the final pieces of collection went down the runway, the ethereal soundtrack (music by Michel Gaubert) reminded me that the clothes felt fluid and ethereal, too. Sea shells, with their seductive spiral structure and soft, iridescent hues, were the designer's inspiration. And, like nature's creations, those of Carmen Marc Valvo were naturally beautiful.

The clothes felt seductive and the moved with the models in whispery ripples and flutterings that were quite feminine, but elegant and sophisticated, not in the coquettishly-girly way that I've seen in many collections so far. Tiers of soft, silk, satin, organza, chiffon and gazar flowed in tiers of pleating and ruffles, reminiscent of the complicated interiors of genuine shells. The designer used the word "Gazar" to describe some of his fashions, including light as a feather, crisp, billowing organza blouses with lots of showy ruffles ("gazar" is a loosely woven silk with a crisp finish), but these extravagant creations were reigned in on the bottom, with the model's waists often constricted with belts (the "must-have" trend for Spring 2008) and tamed with tailored, slimmer pants.

Many of the cocktail dresses featured a longer skirt length and an almost demure use of high necks, many with ruffles, with the "sexiness" coming from the movement of the tiered skirts, as you can see from the model in the black dress on the left.

There were also a few swimsuits in this collection. The navy swimsuit with wide black belt covered elegantly with an oyster colored silk organza trench coat would turn heads for sure, and looks chic and sexy, without being over-the-top, "barely-there." Also included in this season's collection was a new Carmen Marc Valvo sunglasses collection, created by Carmen and Signature Eyewear, Inc. The chunky, brightly-colored frames are going to help women make a fashion statement when they debut this Spring, and they'll range from $150-$350

The talented Odile Gilbert, sponsored by Redken 5th Avenue, did elegant, but slightly loosened updos. Makeup was created by the also talented Tom Pecheux for Art and Commerce, and the MAC Pro Team, sponsored by MAC Cosmetics, and nails by Creative Nail Design.

all text and photos by Alison Blackman Dunham -- copyright © 2007 all rights reserved-The Advice Sisters®. FEEL FREE TO LINK TO ANY POST ON MY BLOG, but do not copy this text or illustrations without written permission. Permissions: advicesisters@advicesisters.net. The Advice Sisters is a registered United States trademark.