Terrific Show, Tuleh! fedoras, boots, color!

A few hours before showtime, I sat backstage at the Tuleh show, watching Yannick, the hair stylist for Redken, create a beautiful hair look. He sectioned the model's hair and combed lots of Redken #5 Workforce volumizing and texturizing mousse through it. He blew this model's hair pin straight and shiny, and it was a long process to get her verylong hair just right. Patiently he straightened each section. When her hair was finally perfect, he added Redken #01 Glass Smoothing Serum (one of my favorite products to tame frizz and add non-greasy shine). Then he wound sections of hair on a large barrel curling iron for a few seconds, pulling the curl gently off the iron intact and making a pincurl of it to "set". Then he wrapped all the pincurls together in a high bun to keep hair bouncy but not too controlled. Hair was parted in the middle and smoothed on top so that it was sleek without any volume on the sides, but the ends looked full and bouncy. Yannick told me that the look he was going for was cool, sexy, and a bit wavy/straight, but not curly and not with a lot of volume. "It is most important to have clean hair for this look," he kept saying. Hair must be healthy and look good to have movement.

Here is the completed look with hair and makeup. The other photo is of some models being readied for the show. Yannick straightened and smoothed and twisted and smoothed and twisted for about 20-30 minutes to get hair looking right. TIP FOR DO IT YOURSELF-ERS: Yannick used Redken products such as Touch Control to keep the style, perfect. You can do this look too, although you might need a couple of hands to make hair picture-perfect. You're also going to have patience, but if you use the Redken products and style your hair as described, you may approximate the look. At the very least your hair will look shiny and stylish!

I spoke to Kim of the Pritti Organic Nail Salon. Their polishes are dibutyl phthalate (or DBP), toluene and formaldehyde so they won't damage nails with harsh chemicals. These are the colors Kim used on the models, depending upon what they were wearing. The colors in the Tuleh show were bright and distinctive...so Kim had a huge chart to ensure that the model's nails wouldn't clash with whatever they were wearing and she followed it carefully. Notice that metallics are going to be BIG for Fall, but at least the colors are Autumn friendly, and not "Goth" as with the blackened blues, blacks and purples of last Fall.

P Polly Osmond was the lead makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics. She was quite busy with scheduled interviews, and so I didn't get a chance to figure out all of the names and new products that MAC is promoting for Fall 2008, but the eyes were the focus in this look for Tuleh, and you can see the finished face to the left, the dominant colors on the right. The look was finished with a natural looking pink lipstick called "4N" (in stores, now) and a touch of sheer pink lip gloss. A matte beige face with just a touch of blush, finishes the look. TIP FOR DO IT YOURSELF-ERS: If you want to do this yourself, make sure that the colors on your eyes are very well blended with no hard edges. Use a base of dark brown shadow on lids, with an overlay of shimmery copper, and rim eyes all around with a line of shimmery bright gold.

I have to say that I personally loved this collection the best of all I've seen so far this season. Of course, it it only Sunday, so there are five more days to go. But the Tuleh collection not only featured vibrant color, there was such an assortment of styles that any woman could find something to covet, in it, from tulip-hemmed outerwear, to lounge-style hostess wear, And oh, those suede, stiletto boots and the jaunty, colorful fedoras in vibrant colors like orange and green and purple!

On the Tuleh soundtrack, Bobby Kennedy could be heard encouraging love, wisdom, and compassion for one another....but the Tuleh show wasn't a political statment, it was a riot of color and fun fashion. It takes a woman with confidence to wear some of these styles, but the nipped-in waists of the tailored suits, the flowing pajamas and kimonos (to wear just for a lover, perhaps?) and the evening dresses...maybe not a revolution as Mr. Kennedy might have produced, but certainly, a wonderful way to wear color this Fall!

...here are three of my favorite looks from the show. I only wish I'd captured a model wearing one of Tuleh's brightly colored Fedoras's... I'm already dreaming of having one to wear when the weather, chills. The fedoras are a MUST HAVE for Fall 2008.

Fashion comentator Robert Verdi sat one seat away from me at Tuleh's runway show. Afterwards, I told him, he was my favorite fashion reporter and that I loved the coverage he was providing for the American Express web site during Fashion Week. He seemed pleased to hear it, and then he said: "Well, now you're my official favorite, too!" And I snapped this photo. NICE guy (and great at his job , too).

Fashion Week--Must-Haves

In my post of February 1st on this blog I wrote: "for 7 days those of us involved in Fashion Week will live in an altered reality. There will be memorable people to meet, and some who aren't so nice. There will be connections to make, and some that only last for the amount of time you are standing on the line to enter the show. We will know what's coming in fashion, but we can't know what's coming for the next 7 days until we live them.

Fashion Week is over. Every season I've attended, I find the experience to be like a roller-coaster ride. First, there's the anticipation. Then, there's the growing excitement as the first shows reveal a glimpse of our fashion future (for the next season, at least). Mid-week, there's exaustion: "Why am I subjecting myself to the intensity of this?" The intensity continues to build as the shows draw to a close. Who will show us something new and exciting? Whose collection will flop? What other news will affect us? This year, the death of Anna Nicole Smith, and the bitterly cold weather, were two big topics of conversation.

On Friday, after all of the above, I always feel a bit of a let-down as I bid farewell to the tents, my 7-day home-away-from-home. But the title of this blog post is "Fashion Week Must Haves." Here's what I simply couldn't be without --- followed by things I would definitely ditch (if it were up to me), and a few closing thoughts on Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007:

Fashion Week Must-Haves:

Clothes: really warm coat (will definitely get dirty since it will be dragged on floors, spilled on backstage, and rumpled in standing room). Comfortable shoes (heels tend to turn into flats, and then into sneakers as the week goes by) . Gel pads for comfortable shoes (no shoe is really comfortable after you've been standing all day). Layered clothing (you're going to get HOT, and then COLD, and then HOT, and then COLD...)!

Handbag: this is the second season that I've used a Butler Bag to carry all my essentials. It is sturdy, with inside compartments that let you see exactly what is inside without fumbling and fishing. It has seen me through travel, interviews, launch parties, and even a few dinner dates!

Emergency Kit: Tape (for everything from a broken camera to a ripped hem), Batteries (for the two digital cameras, audio voice recorder, and MP3Player I carry), Aleve and Aspirin (for aching feet and bones); Pens and pads (lots of them)...the MAC booth is a godsend but thick-barrelled pens are easier on the hands when you're taking lots of notes; A great, lightweight tote (for all the above)

Makeup Must-haves: Lots of lip balm and treatments (Einstein Lip Theory, Z. Bigatti Re-Storation Lip Pout and Re-Storation Lip Envy, Damage Reveral Lip Treatment by Patricia Wexler, M.D., ANEW Clinical plump & Smooth by Avon), Hair products (Redken, Got2B, Warren Tricomi, Aveda, Bumble & Bumble), great brushes, and a hair straightener by Maxius.
Eye shadow that won't run, crease, or quit: Stila, Trish McEvoy, Laura Mercier, NARS, MAC)
Blush that won't run, crease, or quit (Boots No.7, Tarte, Jillian Dempsey for Avon). A great foundation and base that won't run, crease, or quit: Clarins Instant Smooth Perfecting Touch, Make Up For Ever Matte Velvet, Anew Age Transforming Foundation, Biotherm Light!). A great Mascara that won't run, flake, or fade: best of the best: Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Dior, Bourjois, Clinique...Q-Tips!....Great Hand and Body Creams (Zia Age-Defying Hand Treatment, Essie Smoothies, Lady Primrose Royal Extract Body Creme, Phytomer BodyRexlax).

Food: Thanks to DHL in the tents for the coffee, I really appreciated it. Still, you've got to eat sometime. If you don't want to leave the tents, and can't squeeze your way into the little "cafe" area inside, seasons past there were sponsors offering power bars, yogurt, mints, etc. This year, we got to look at gorgeous cars, but there wasn't a snack in site. Bring your own water, too. These are still given out, but bring your own water bottle or juice pack, if you want to be sure you are properly hydrated.

Business Cards: I can't believe how many people don't have them (or enough of them) for Fashion Week!

...Michael from New Jersey, a firefighter and Fashion Week Security Guard --and ALL the security guards and service personnel who are polite and patient (you guys have a rough job, and we all know it)! ...and Michael....definitely do enter yourself as a model for the next fire-fighters calender...you'll be a hunky hit!

DEFINITELY DITCH:

Overuse of the word "chicettes," chicas," "fashionistas" and "fabulous" (once or twice is ok but "gag me" when it's used more often)

Non-essential guests who get great seats, while members of the press and the buyers are standing in the back. Also impossibly long standing room lines that are first come first served. Suggestion to IMG: Why not let working press (who paid for the ability to report on the shows) move up to the front of the standing room line if they do not have assigned seats and the standing room line is very long? Press need to get in to to their jobs more than the merely curious do.

The ("new") idea that "by invitation only" (and you didn't get one) means you are apparently less "fabulous" than some other folks, while you are in full view of them (and a sign that says "be fabulous").

Daily suites once open to all with creds, now mystifying if you didn't get the "missive"

Internet writers who report on shows and parties as a clique of cronies, pretending that they were flooded with invitations (but only one person really gets in and files a report for all the others "as-if" ). Sharing info is ok, but please keep the internet credible and honest, and say your content is second hand.

Hotel lobbies where a "fash week" invitation gets you through to the elevators or else, you're left out in the cold.

Cold Weather...can't wait for Spring!

Some Final Thoughts On Mercedez Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007:

Fashion week is like a wedding: it brings out the best, and the worst, in the best in people. Mostly it brings out the best in them...but there are always a few exceptions. There are new connections to be made, and the type of instant bonding that takes place when you're all in the same place and situation, together. Easy laughter over a drink or a shared seat in the Lycra Lounge. Alas, there are also attendees who feel more "entitled" than others. they are rude and pushy. They take other people's assigned seats and refuse to move. Some even steal products out of goodie bags that or take entire bags that don't belong to them. We're not just talking one thing or one bag....-I saw a man literally take an ENTIRE ROW of little bags off the back row at a major show! How many beauty products or T-shirts could you really need?

And, while my own visibility continues to grow, I'm still aware that the fashion week I experience as a member of the Internet press is different from that of the very high profile press. I'm in the majority of journalists who attend to do a job, and pass the information on to people who will probably never get closer to the tents than seeing them on TV. We do not arrive in furs and limo at the last minute, waving an invite with a seat assignment already on it (front row, or second row at the very worst). We do not walk directly to our seats...we wait..and wait...and wait some more. We do have a shared experience with the "Annas" and "Patricks" and other "must-have" front-row faces, though: we are united in our interest in being part of the experience, and viewing the newest clothes and trends.

I feel fortunate to receive press credentials to cover these shows as I have done for a number of seasons (I believe that I was one of the first Internet writers to receive credentials). I feel even more fortunate that I have a network of related professionals who know my work, understand the power of the Internet (and the power of my international audience), and respect my professionalism,. Due to them, I was able to cover more of backstage than ever before. My sincere appreciation to all of you that made it possible to pass information and experiences on to my readers.

My writing is always first-hand. If I don't experience something, I don't pretend that I did, just to boost ratings or readers. My style is 100% "up-close-and-personal." So....to the designers and sponsors who don't know me or are not sure they need my online coverage need to, let me show you what I can do. If you, or any of your assistants/friends/staff/colleagues/publicists/clients read The Advice Sisters through this blog, my web site, the What Works Beauty, Cosmetics & Fashion Review columns, my bi-monthly Enews, or my Myspace.com page and like what has been written about other designers, maybe next year I will get close enough to your clothes, products or services to report on them! Please contact me and put me on your media list.

See you NEXT season!

Bill Blass --Bravo! Fall Fashion Week 2007

Most (if not all) of the models in the Bill Blass show were too young to recognize their struttin' music--a fantastic song from the 1940's: "Sing Sing Sing" by Benny Goodman. This vintage swing song with a driving drum beat, was made undeniably modern in a remix by Johnny Dynell featuring an even heavier drum beat that continued throughout the entire show: "Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!" The sound added burlesque irreverence to the feminine Fall 2007 fashions.

As we'd see when the lights came up and a "curtain" featuring the iconic Bill Blass logo parted, Michael Vollbracht's homage to the past and view of Fall 2007 was also a mix of vintage-made-modern, but with a touch of rebellion. A large curtain (with the iconic Bill Blass Logo) parted, and models brashly strode right down the middle of the runway: "Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!"

The beat may have been largely"stripper," but these were not trashy clothes. This label is attracting younger women as well as loyal followers who are (now a bit older than when they first fell in love with Bill Blass. We saw beautifully tailored day clothes, elegant, red-carpet-worthy evening gowns, in colors (yes, colors)! Deep green, moss green, gold, cinnamon, olive green, cocoa, indigo blue, champagne, coral...! Of course there was plenty of classic black, too. "Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!"




In this photo I took at the end of the show, when the models did their final walks down the runway, pausing to form little groups and then becoming animated (a rarity on runways) and walking backstage together. The clothes are so ladylike, but if you look closer, there's an edge to them. This is not your mother's Bill Blass, but it's still recognizable. There was something very delicate and feminine about the collection--any modern woman would look beautiful in classic basic black cocktail and evening dresses and nicely tailored separates for daytime. There were a few interesting departures from classic, such as a white feathered embroidered cocktail dress that reminded me of a flapper's dress from the 1920's. Another great note: the 50's-style hair, parted on one side and piled up in huge buns by Jimmy Paul for Bumble & Bumble that immediately felt modern 50's to me--a nod to Tippi Hedren in Hitchcock's "The Birds" re-mixed for 2007. I couldn't see the makeup because I wasn't backstage or up close, but the program notes tell me the MAC Cosmetics pro team created this look, so I will get more information for a feature, later on. "Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!"

Although there has been a lot of attention paid to furs--whether to wear them or not, furs were in this show and there have been more than ever on the runways (and no PETA protestors in sight). Blass also followed the trend of adding heavy tights (everywhere on the runways).

Furs were from Global Fur Group, Handbags from Carlos Falchi. Shoes, by Bill Blass.

Here is the designer with some of his models at the end of the show. I thought it was interesting that in a few places the notes say "Halston-like" and "Norrell-like. Michael Vollbracht apparently wanted to take inspiration from the past (although he had plenty that was uniquely his) and, as it says in the program notes that he was inspired by Halston and Norrell because: "I fell in love (Norrell's) sequined mermaids years and years ago when I was a very young designer and about Halston: "'because his simple philosophy looks so good in this era of over-designing. " And of Bill Blass: "it is my job to knock him off."

"Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!!!!!"

Mini goodie-bags held Bill Blass Eau de Parfum (*watch the Advice Sisters upcoming What Works column for more on this simply divine scent)!

Alexandre Herchovitch-Mercedez Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007

I knew I'd never make it to the actual runway show for Alexandre Herchcovitch, since I had to go downtown for backstage interviews for Gustavo Arango, so I arrived at the backstage area of the tent early, after leaving Alice Roi (just a few steps away in the other backstage tent area).

I had a long wait until I could finally convince someone to let me backstage. In the interim, I met an interesting man who represented Taiwan Vogue. Alas, I had little time to get the scoop about the makeup from the lead makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics (Philippe Chansel). I will get details from my contact at MAC and make sure that the details are included in the photo essay feature I'll be doing, later on (check the Advice Sisters FEATURES page of access it from the Home Page http://www.advicesisters.net throught the next few weeks to see what I've posted).

As you can see from the close up of the makeup photo above, the Fall trend of focusing on the eyes, with minimal makeup everywhere else, was featured by MAC for the Alexandre Herchcovitch show as well. This time, the look wasn't black or blue, but deep, dramatic brown ringing the eyes..with very pale skin and nude lips. The inspiration for the MAC makeup was really taken from the clothes. This designer's clothes are quirkly and irreverant and very fashion-forward. There were, for instance, a number of fashions created from what really looked like heavy duty black plastic garbage bags with tie necks--one paired with a palm-leaf hat with open top, and beige suede high-heeled pump/boots with long ties. This type of look requires unusual makeup.As explained to me by Philippe Chansel for MAC, Alexandre Herchovitch designs for Brazillian women olive skin, so the colors were particularly flattering to them. The "ethnic/rustic" look shows in the focus all on the eyes, with absolutely minimal makeup elsewhere. The look is naturally-messy but artfully blended. The vibe is a peasant woman's view of how beauty looks after she's been working all day ...her labors show in her eyes (in a beautiful and fashionable way, of course). The hair was done by Celso and his team from RUSK --hair slicked back in messy buns.

I didn't see the show, but I did check out a few of the outfits on the racks. As I mentioned above, some of the clothes are a bit "far out" (at least, to me). But there were some wearable, beautiful things as well. A standout for me was of soft green and teal wool plaids, one translated into a long coat that was very beautiful and wearable. Another a double-breasted mini-capelet in teal looked like it would be a comforting "shrug" to add color to an otherwise somber Fall palette.