Moda Manhattan/Accessories The Show/Fame May 6-8 2007

Back in January, I went to the Moda Manhattan/Fame/Accessories The Show grouping at the Javits Center in New York. The organizer is Business Journals Inc (BJI), a business media company that produces 5 business-to-business magazines, 8 trade shows, and a number of seminars and web sites. They have always been gracious to the press, and I find these shows lively and full of interesting individuals selling everything from evening gowns, to key chains.

Moda Manhattan and Fame offer fashions and accessories, but the Accessories Show is the only juried, all-accessories trade event in the entire USA. The trio of market exhibits are focused on buyers (more than 8000) so almost everything there is wholesale only. When I arrived on Tuesday (the last afternoon for the show), it was still packed with enthusiastic buyers from speciality stores and boutiques, department stores, catalogues, and even duty free shops looking to see what's available for the next season in activewear, special occasion/evening, outerwear/coats, suits/ careerwear, dresses, knitwear/sweaters, sportswear, related separates, soft separates, loungewear/sleepwear, fur/leather, and accessories from belts to bags to hats to tons and tons and tons of jewelry in all price points.
As usual, I got there late, and a bit breathless (I walked cross-town because it was such a nice day). I made a quick stop in the press lounge, and discovered that there were a lot of press materials I would have liked to pick up, but for some reason, the complimentary tote bags (or any type of carry bags) are never offered to the press. Of all the people who really need a tote, you'd think the press would be top of the list? In any case, my purse felt like it weighed about 500 gazillion pounds after toting it around for a couple of hours.

But all gripes aside, as I said in my last post in January, if you can't spot trends here, you're not looking very hard.

So what trends did I see for Fall? As far as the eye could see, the usual earth tones, black, grey and deep greens were in full force, but the mood was somber. They say fashion mirrors the mood of the country, so maybe the war and other troubles at home are influencing designers. There seemed to be lots of soft and drape-y fashions, many in cashmere, velvet, and other luxury fabrics. Styles seemed less structured, softer, a bit more forgiving (that doesn't mean you should chow down on cheeseburgers, but at least you won't need to be model-thin to wear anything trendy). In accessories, wide belts, "ethnic" jewelry, lots of hats (many soft cloches or berets), embellished handbags (with everything from stones to feathers), lots of prints, and lots of embroidery and beading seem to be "in."

Every season, simply by walking around the large exhbit floors, I find a few vendors with something special --something I know my Advice Sisters readers will want to know about. I'll be featuring some of this season's vendors in my monthly "What Works" Beauty, Cosmetics & Fashion review columns, and in my Enews and here on this blog.

I was tired and ready to leave, when I spied a wall of handbags, and had to stop. They were trendy and attractive--and when Anna Maria Blescia and her partner, Gail Mackler-Carlino of Frenz...eee told me that their bags were not leather, but a line of "animal friendly" (in other words, man made materials, not from animals) handbags, I was hooked. Their designs stand out from the rest of the pack (and believe me, at these shows you get to see a LOT of handbags). What also impressed me about the Frenz...eee line are the trendy designs and the fact that while many of the handbags are crafted from synthetics (some are fabric), these faux materials have the look and feel of buttery soft leather. Even better, they're lightweight, easy care and, of course, no animals were used to create them.

I took home a Classic Satchel in ivory....I'm in love with it! I could have taken home half a dozen styles! Oh, and another HUGE plus: the prices are reasonable! I'm not going to tell you ALL about Frenz...eeeright now--you'll have to visit my July/August "What Works" column (first week in July--June is up first week in June) to get the entire story about Anna and Gail, and their awesome assortment of items). These bags offer value, but still, the quality is high. They have all the bells and whistles that more luxury brands offer, down to a dust bag and a signature keychain (two swinging purses) included with every bag. If you can't wait for my column, visit www.frenzeee.com for information!

Also interesting was ArtofCloth, a collection of art-inspired casual clothing made from handmade textiles. The tunics and shawls were not only interesting to look at, but cover a variety of "evils" if your body is less than perfect. I also liked the rhinestone-festooned leather handbags from Ximena Ramirez These are a bit pricey and definitely not for the shy, but if you like the sparkle, the rhinestone-laden bags are perfect day-to-evening choices!

Cynthia Rowley, Rocks it with Redken and Avon

Cynthia Rowley's runway show at the great and glamorous Gotham Hall was one of my favorites last season, and this year didn't disappoint either. I'll talk about the clothes briefly here, but will be adding more about them in a full feature in a few weeks focusing also on the hair (by fabulous REDKEN) and the makeup (a brilliant, new Cynthia Rowley for AVON Fall 2007 Color Collection). I checked to see who is reading this block, and discovered that along with all the readers the Advice Sisters have in English speaking countries, the past few entries in this blog have been translated into a number of languages, the most popular being French, Chinese, German, Japanese, Turkish, Korean, Dutch; Flemish, Arabic, and Greek ! I am flattered that someone would take the time to translate "The Advice Sisters!" If you are visiting this blog, please let me know. Leave a COMMENT! I'd appreciate it.

But back to Cynthia Rowley: As I walked through the backstage area, I spied a group of people with needle and thread, quietly stitching together what seemed to be a 30-foot brunette braid (3o foot braid?!). I was informed by REDKEN lead stylist Rodney Cutler that this giant braid was for the finale of the show. It would be attached to the head of just one model, and the rest of the models would hold it as the walked their last looks down the runway. As they stiched the braids together to make one long chain, it writhed and wiggled like a giant snake emerging from primordial ooze. It was a bit freaky, actually, but looked great on the runway and got murmurs and a few giggles from the audience.

As you might have already guessed, it was braids that were the theme of the hair for the Cynthia Rowley show. Rodney didn't do "pigtail" type braids, but instead, sophisticated, sleek, shiny hair with no part held tight to the head by a number of REDKEN styling products (see a view of the products below). How much and what was used depended upon the texture and length of the model's hair, but as you can see from the photo on the right, all those REDKEN products may each girls' hair sleek and shiny. The finished look was youthful (as are Cynthia Rowley's clothes), but still sophisticated, fresh and pretty, not silly, wacky, or out of place.

Actually, I got the the Gotham Hall early, before my REDKEN contacts arrived, but discovered that most of my contacts from the public relations firm Tractenberg, were already in place at the doors and inside the backstage area (they were handling the PR for AVON and for the press reception for the Cynthia Rowley for AVON Fall 2007 Color Collection) after the show. I was eager to see it.

AVON has several new collections that are quite beautiful, and the one For the Cynthia Rowley show is stunning! You are going to want to buy all o fit. As luck with have it, the lead on the collection, Jillian Dempsey, had just given birth to twins a few days prior, so she had her friend, makeup artist Tina Turnbow do the model's makeup instead. FYI: Tina learned her craft by assisting celebrated makeup artists such as Kay Montano and Pat McGrath, and works with celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Natalie Portman, Anne Hathaway, Julianne Moore, and Joan Allen, among others.

As with many of the makeup looks for Fall, this one for Cynthia Rowley is all about the EYES (are you getting the theme for Fall, 2007 from all these blog entries?) . I had the opportunity to see Tina apply the makeup to the first model and explain it to her assistants. I was sitting down among them (maybe not such a good idea, but I knew I'd been on my feet for hours, and it was a free chair). At one point, Tina suddenly stopped what she was doing, and looked right at me : "Who are YOU?" she said in a voice that reminded me of the Caterpillar on the Hookah in Alice in Wonderland. "Uh, Oh, I'm a writer and reporter" I mumbled (as humble as Dorothy adressing the Wizard). Thankfully, one of the lovely women from Tractenberg confirmed my reason for being there and once the mystery was cleared up. Tina went right back to work, and I went right back to work too, taking notes!

The new, AVON Cynthia Rowley makeup collection is remarkable, not just for it's wearable and quite beautiful palette, but also because it translated uniquely to each model. I'm not going give away the secrets to getting this beautiful Cynthia Rowley makeup look from AVON today....you'll have to wait until my feature on the show is posted on the Advice Sisters Web Site http://www.advicesisters.net....but I will say that the collection will be available through AVON for Fall 2007 and it will work it's magic for you as well *Watch my FEATURES PAGE on advicesisters.net http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html for a complete description of how to get the goods, and do the look (coming in a few weeks).

The look was all about a fresh face (no foundation, just a bit of brightening powder, concealer and a dusting of face powder if necessary). As with most of the shows I've seen this week, the focus is all on the eyes. This time, in a palette of violet and grey with some shimmer and lots of mascara. The model I quickly snapped in the photo above is a thousand times more beautiful than this photo shows, but it gives you a great look at the eyes. Note that the lips are pink and very, very shiny. The new Cynthia Rowley Color Collection for AVON lip gloss is unbelievable!a definite must have for your Fall makeup wardrobe.

As you can see from the model above, the eyes are the thing. The look was all about a fresh face (no foundation, just a bit of brightening powder, concealer and a dusting of face powder if necessary). Eyes were done in a palette of violet and grey (with some shimmer) and lots of mascara. There was just a bit of pink blush to warm up the face. The model I quickly snapped in the photo above is much more beautiful than this photo shows, but it gives you a great look at the eyes. Note that the lips are pink and very, very shiny. The new Cynthia Rowley Color Collection for AVON lip gloss is unbelievable!a definite "must have" for your Fall makeup wardrobe.

Bill Blass --Bravo! Fall Fashion Week 2007

Most (if not all) of the models in the Bill Blass show were too young to recognize their struttin' music--a fantastic song from the 1940's: "Sing Sing Sing" by Benny Goodman. This vintage swing song with a driving drum beat, was made undeniably modern in a remix by Johnny Dynell featuring an even heavier drum beat that continued throughout the entire show: "Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!" The sound added burlesque irreverence to the feminine Fall 2007 fashions.

As we'd see when the lights came up and a "curtain" featuring the iconic Bill Blass logo parted, Michael Vollbracht's homage to the past and view of Fall 2007 was also a mix of vintage-made-modern, but with a touch of rebellion. A large curtain (with the iconic Bill Blass Logo) parted, and models brashly strode right down the middle of the runway: "Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!"

The beat may have been largely"stripper," but these were not trashy clothes. This label is attracting younger women as well as loyal followers who are (now a bit older than when they first fell in love with Bill Blass. We saw beautifully tailored day clothes, elegant, red-carpet-worthy evening gowns, in colors (yes, colors)! Deep green, moss green, gold, cinnamon, olive green, cocoa, indigo blue, champagne, coral...! Of course there was plenty of classic black, too. "Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!"




In this photo I took at the end of the show, when the models did their final walks down the runway, pausing to form little groups and then becoming animated (a rarity on runways) and walking backstage together. The clothes are so ladylike, but if you look closer, there's an edge to them. This is not your mother's Bill Blass, but it's still recognizable. There was something very delicate and feminine about the collection--any modern woman would look beautiful in classic basic black cocktail and evening dresses and nicely tailored separates for daytime. There were a few interesting departures from classic, such as a white feathered embroidered cocktail dress that reminded me of a flapper's dress from the 1920's. Another great note: the 50's-style hair, parted on one side and piled up in huge buns by Jimmy Paul for Bumble & Bumble that immediately felt modern 50's to me--a nod to Tippi Hedren in Hitchcock's "The Birds" re-mixed for 2007. I couldn't see the makeup because I wasn't backstage or up close, but the program notes tell me the MAC Cosmetics pro team created this look, so I will get more information for a feature, later on. "Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!"

Although there has been a lot of attention paid to furs--whether to wear them or not, furs were in this show and there have been more than ever on the runways (and no PETA protestors in sight). Blass also followed the trend of adding heavy tights (everywhere on the runways).

Furs were from Global Fur Group, Handbags from Carlos Falchi. Shoes, by Bill Blass.

Here is the designer with some of his models at the end of the show. I thought it was interesting that in a few places the notes say "Halston-like" and "Norrell-like. Michael Vollbracht apparently wanted to take inspiration from the past (although he had plenty that was uniquely his) and, as it says in the program notes that he was inspired by Halston and Norrell because: "I fell in love (Norrell's) sequined mermaids years and years ago when I was a very young designer and about Halston: "'because his simple philosophy looks so good in this era of over-designing. " And of Bill Blass: "it is my job to knock him off."

"Boom! Boom! Boom-Boom da-boom!!!!!"

Mini goodie-bags held Bill Blass Eau de Parfum (*watch the Advice Sisters upcoming What Works column for more on this simply divine scent)!

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-ARAKS

I wondered what time the PR staff from People's Revolution had to get up to be at the front of the Altman Building. There they were, and all smiles too, when I arrived at 9:45 A.M. on Super Bowl Sunday. More amazingly, as always, the PR people were beautifully dressed up, even though it was ever chillier today than yesterday and they were sitting right behind the front doors. Since I already knew where backstage was from Gustavo Arango's show on Saturday, I immediately made my way downstairs to the back stage area, to interview James Boehmer, the lead makeup artist for NARS Cosmetics. I met Rachel, my friendly, helpful contact from NARS, and she introduced me to James. I guess I got there a bit later than usual, because many of the models were already "done," but there were still some being made up. James graciously stopped what he was doing to chat with me, stopping our interview only occasionally to check one of the other makeup artists' work.

As you can see from this close-up, this look for ARAKS for Fall is about a balanced, fresh feeling on the entire face. It's not just eyes, or cheeks, or lips. James said the look was inspired by Elizabeth Bennett in Pride and Prejudice (and that was totally in keeping with the romantic nature of the clothes, too). I loved the slightly flushed, "English rose" cheeks and soft pink lip and you will too, it's just about perfect to add some life to your complexion, especially since you'll be wearing a lot of soft and subdued colors this Fall. The Fall ARAKS look is all about the skin...a flawless but fresh face, NARS "Turkish Red" Cream blush and "Desire" pink powder blush adding a hit of color, but not harsh or brash. "Blend, blend, blend" advises James. On Eyes was part of a new shadow duo that won't be available until the end of August, but worth the wait. "Calahari" is a soft brown" that was blended with another new color "Voyage," a soft fawn with a bit of glitter. On lips, NARS"Tempest" lip gloss --a pink with a bit of mauve, but softened so that it will be universally flattering. It looked beautiful on all the models. This is less about "drama" or making a "statement," and more about bringing your own, natural, glowing, beauty. I'll be posting more photos of makeup and hair, and the clothes, of course, shortly on the Advice Sisters web --- check our FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html for all the latest after Fashion Week, along with "do-the-look" makeup instructions, courtesy of NARS.

After speaking with James, I wandered over to Peter Elofsson and his artistic team from RUSK. Peter did the hair for ARAKS last season, too. When I arrived, he was busy using a straightening/smoothing iron on a model. Peter explained that his look for ARAKS was inspired by the elegance of the clothes--a soft of Catherine Deneuve feel, but with more "street" (meaning; texture) in it. You'll see that in my photos. Nearly all of the models had long hair, so the "texture" was added by "bending" the hair a bit (you can see this clearly in my photos, which I'll be using in my photo essays on the Advice Sisters Web Site. Hair had a side part and some models had a tiny silver barette holding a few pieces back to the side. Then, hair was sprayed with a RUSK hair spray to keep it in place, but still swingy. For Fall, Peter says long hair isn't just going to "hang" anymore, but will have a sharper edge and more details.

FYI: Creative Nail design (they did the nails for ARAKS last season, too) did the model's manicures with "Fedora," a very dark polish, and "Decadence," a translucent red.


and the ARAKS collection clothes? Unlike the Spring season's diaphanous clothes, these were more substantial for Fall, with soft movement from rich wools, silk and cotton fabrics. There was some color in this collection, although it was still subdued and mostly dark shades of blue, berry, green, and silver (plus the usual black, ivory, coal, and white) One that I particularly liked was a wool/cotton double face dress with bell sleeves that was in a color called "Night," just a shade lighter than the color of the sky just before all the light dies after the day is over. Another was a coat in a color I'd call "Raspberry" but I think it was called "Gooseberry" in the show description. It was tailored, but with gathering in the back, so it looked dressy, and elegant. A pine silk twill drop shoulder dress with drop puff sleeve was fresh and young, and very pretty. The fashion critics may disagree with me, but the only "miss" for me were the outfits with knickers or shorts, paired with lace-up boots. "Hot pants" or long knickers are "stage-y" and cute for a party, but not flattering on everyone. A cute look that is easy to wear and modern, were the lace-up ankle boots with traditional "oxford" detailing shown with many of the outfits.

Alexandre Herchovitch-Mercedez Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007

I knew I'd never make it to the actual runway show for Alexandre Herchcovitch, since I had to go downtown for backstage interviews for Gustavo Arango, so I arrived at the backstage area of the tent early, after leaving Alice Roi (just a few steps away in the other backstage tent area).

I had a long wait until I could finally convince someone to let me backstage. In the interim, I met an interesting man who represented Taiwan Vogue. Alas, I had little time to get the scoop about the makeup from the lead makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics (Philippe Chansel). I will get details from my contact at MAC and make sure that the details are included in the photo essay feature I'll be doing, later on (check the Advice Sisters FEATURES page of access it from the Home Page http://www.advicesisters.net throught the next few weeks to see what I've posted).

As you can see from the close up of the makeup photo above, the Fall trend of focusing on the eyes, with minimal makeup everywhere else, was featured by MAC for the Alexandre Herchcovitch show as well. This time, the look wasn't black or blue, but deep, dramatic brown ringing the eyes..with very pale skin and nude lips. The inspiration for the MAC makeup was really taken from the clothes. This designer's clothes are quirkly and irreverant and very fashion-forward. There were, for instance, a number of fashions created from what really looked like heavy duty black plastic garbage bags with tie necks--one paired with a palm-leaf hat with open top, and beige suede high-heeled pump/boots with long ties. This type of look requires unusual makeup.As explained to me by Philippe Chansel for MAC, Alexandre Herchovitch designs for Brazillian women olive skin, so the colors were particularly flattering to them. The "ethnic/rustic" look shows in the focus all on the eyes, with absolutely minimal makeup elsewhere. The look is naturally-messy but artfully blended. The vibe is a peasant woman's view of how beauty looks after she's been working all day ...her labors show in her eyes (in a beautiful and fashionable way, of course). The hair was done by Celso and his team from RUSK --hair slicked back in messy buns.

I didn't see the show, but I did check out a few of the outfits on the racks. As I mentioned above, some of the clothes are a bit "far out" (at least, to me). But there were some wearable, beautiful things as well. A standout for me was of soft green and teal wool plaids, one translated into a long coat that was very beautiful and wearable. Another a double-breasted mini-capelet in teal looked like it would be a comforting "shrug" to add color to an otherwise somber Fall palette.

Venexiana-Sat Feb 3rd-Mercedes Benz Fashion Week

My last show on Saturday night was Kati Stern Venexiana. I was tired, but really excited to see this show. I wondered if the super-cold weather and the Saturday night schedule would thin out the crowd, but by showtime, the venue was packed! I didn't have backstage access for this one, but Paul Labrecque did the hair and makeup for this show, and nails were by Creative Nail Design. Front my front-row seat, I could see that the focus was on glossy pink lips, with expressively-done eyes in earth-toned shadows, but very well defined. Hair was side-parted, long, flowing, bouncy and full of body and wavy curls. The look was pretty and modern, but with womanly (not little girl) elegance and a hint of "avant-garde."

Venexiana 's clothes are similar: modern, but especially in the evening gowns, there was a definite red carpet elegance--and just a bit of "off-beat" in a silvery rope draped around a black evening gown and trailing up and over one shoulder, for example, for a beautiful coat cinched with a huge belt. Another trend this season is undeniably socks. At Venexiana, high-heeled suede and leather pumps (some in bright colors such as turquoise,platform "tap shoes," and some in unexpected, grey suede) were worn with ankle or knee socks, even with flowing dresses such as flowing, polka-dot one in the photo I took, below:

I am wondering whether or not you need to purchase new shoes a size larger to allow for these bulky socks. Your budget might not allow for new shoe purchases to fit this trend, but

this "little girl" look is somehow, likeable (not to mention it's got to be warmer than wearing hose).

The designer, Katie Stern studied fashion, architecture and music, and designed costumes for Carnevale in Venice where she also spends a lot of her time. Her collection for Fall, 2007 really did mix a lot of unusual fabrics together in unique ways, such as leather with lace and metal and fur. There weren't any PETA people outside the tents that I could see, and the fur coats going down the runway were covet-able and luxe, some (as I mentioned above) paired with wide belts that made these coats, which could have been otherwise bulky, almost dress-like. The evening gowns were done in luxury fabrics of silk, charmeuse, chiffon, and accented in some cases with sparkling, Swarovki crystals. Predominant colors were chocolate and grey, with some taupe and black and hits of color through accessories. At the end, however, the designer herself took a turn down the runway, wearing a bright chartreuse dress with satin ruffled collar and chiffon flounce at the bottom (for more photos of the show including the designer, check our advice sisters web site FEATURES page http://www.advicesisters.net/Features/Features.html in the coming weeks for the link to my photo essay on Venexiana!

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Alice Roi

It was cold. Very cold. Too cold. I wondered whether or not I should dress for fashion's sake, or to stay warm. The emotional side of me screamed "you've got to look good!" The practical side said: "It is only Saturday and Fashion Week has really just begun...stay warm and don't get sick."

I opted for a compromise: a robin's egg blue wool jacket reversed with peach, and a camisole that complimented those colors. Pants and black sneakers (I knew I was going to be on my feet from 9am-11pm) and an old down jacket that could be dumped on the floor backstage (so I could juggle my handbag, pen and paper, voice recorder and two cameras without holding a jacket, too).

Anyway, the first stop was Alice Roi. I got there fairly early which meant I got to see Stephane Marais for Bourjois do the model's "model" for all the other Bourjois makeup artists. I will be doing full features with photos on this show in the next few weeks, but I'll give you a preview: the look is all about the eyes. A fresh face and nude, moist lips, but the focus is all on the eyes. Stephane used grey and black metallic and smudged and smoothed and dabbed and smudged...all around the model's eyes. The look was a as if you'd used a lot of non-waterproof eye liner and shadows, and didn't wash it off before bedtime and you rubbed your eyes in teh night. The effect would be soft and smudged around your eyes--but obviously, a much more controlled version walked down the runway! When I spoke to the gracious Celine from Bourjois, she said that the makeup artists were using existing Bourjois products, which means you can "get the look" now if you want to jump ahead a season.

Stephane explained that the look was to compliment Alice Roi's theme and clothes, which was inspired by the beloved book about a little French girl: Madeline (my favorite book growing up). So the makeup was youthful and fresh, but with the deep, smoky eye, a not-so-innocent schoolgirl!

The hair, by Neil Moodie for Bumble and Bumble, was interesting. The models were wearing ponytail extensions made of soft strips of frosted plastic that looked to me like the fringes in a car wash. Hair was pulled sleekly back in mid-crown ponytails. I'll be writing more about the hair on the Advice Sisters Web Site http://www.advicesisters.net/ in the next few weeks. An interesting note was that three of the models (only three) wore short, black wigs. That added a nice balance to the sweetness of the "Madeline" vibe.

I wasn't staying for the show, because I was going to visit backstage at Alexander Herchcovitch, but I did get a sneak peek at the clothes. As yesterday, the colors were austere: black, more black, and black, and some brown and a bit of off-white. There were a lot of chunky knits, worn with (get this): Knee socks and platform shoes of various types. It channeled "Madeline" but more in a Shinjuku punk than very young child. There were some small plaid patterns, primarily in brown tones, some paired with lacy tops to add additional softness. The one bright spot was a sleeveless, swingy, micro-mini dress in a riot of acid pink, orange, white and topped and trimmed with black that looked like something I wore proudly in the 60's. I don't know where it fit into Fall, but it was fun, flirty, and a welcome relief from dark neutrals.


I arrived at the appointed time for Alexander Herchcovitch and was told to come back in half and hour. Nearly two hours later (it was an early call) I finally managed to get backstage to interview the MAC makeup artists and check out the hair. I am off to ARAKS this morning and will write about this show, as well as Gustavo Arrango, and Venexiana, when I get home tonight. It is Superbowl Sunday, but you, my readers, come first!

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Fall 2007-Alice Ritter

Fashion Week has begun!

My first show was Alice Ritter at the Players Club in the chic, Grammercy Park area. It was cold and of course, I arrived on the wrong side of the Park and had to walk around three sides of it to get to my destination.

Inside, young girls in white T-shirts with the simple Alice Ritter logo in black letters, were all smiles. I got there close to start time (I know from experience that most fashion shows do not really start on time) and noticed the cozy club was already packed with chattering fashionistas. Two Alice Ritter staffers, chattering in melodic tones, in French, were sitting on one of three available couches, on opposite ends. They moved over so I could sit down, and I gratefully sank into the leather couch for the "wait" (which turned out to be about 35 minutes). While sitting, I chatted with a young woman who said she was there as an Assistant Buyer for the Isetan department store in Japan. So many buyers and press (yours truly included) didn't have seat assigments! We were finally ushered into a "great hall" lined with imposing oil paintings of what I presume were the founders or past presidents of the Players Club, squeezing ourselves through a gauntlet behind three rows of tightly packed (and mostly filled) seats. We filed in slowly, and I realized that there was an open seat right in front of where the line ended. The lights were just about to go out so I sat down. Alas, anyone not in the front row had an obstructed view.

But the clothes (from what I could see of them) were worth the wait. Down the runway came the most romantic if "costumy" clothes I've seen in a long time. They Edwardian inspired collection featured the most fantastic cropped jackets with nipped-in waists and long, tiered, flouncy back treatments. These were paired with nicely tailored, wide-legged, pants, and romantic, full skirts. Alice Ritter uses a mixture of woven fabrics, and since it was a Fall collection, there was a lot of substantial wool, heavy cotton, and silk. The colors were extremely austere: black, black and more black, and some grey, olive green, and a bit of "caramel, plus a bunch of blouses and dresses in silky, royal purple fabrics. What added spark was silky shine, and some sparkle or sheen in the fabrics of the jackets and skirts.

A lot of this collection is what I'd call "party" or special event clothes, but not in the sense of a formal evening gown. These are clothes to turn heads, but without a rhinestone or a bead, in sight. A standout was a "dandy's" outfit, mixing masculine and feminine: a pure white blouse with a huge ruffled front and collar of crystal pleats, paired with blakc pants and a fitted jacket. With an outfit this "showy" all you need is a pair of diamond stud earrings, and you're good to go! Another standout were two coats: one was a boxy, black and white tweed mid-length coat with a very large, shawl color. The other, a creamy ivory wool with a funnel neck and large buttons, that seemed very retro (think: Audry Hepburn in Charade).

I didn't go backstage for this one, but the main theme of the hair reminded me of party girl fone to sleep and this is the result in the morning. The hair was a "messy" bun with long pieces or tendrils deliberately falling out of it to the side. It was romantic, but I'd suspect it might be harder to accomplish at home than simply making a bun, and sleeping on it! The makeup was by NARS. I liked the matte, dark rose or warm red lips as the main focal point. I'll try to get the details from NARS and share them later on.